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No not quite, sorry my fault for not explaining fully. Before moving the wire i could turn on and off both the hall lights using switch 2. I could also do the same using switch 3. However, if i turn the lights on with switch 2 and then try turning them off with switch 3, only the main hall...

Just tried that but now the entrance hall light is on permanently.

Switch1 Switch2 I tried disconnecting the neutrals (blue & black) on switch 1 but this prevented the outside light from working.

Ok so now i have... Switch 1 - single switch which controls outside light Switch 2 - double switch which controls toilet light and both hall lights Switch 3 - single switch which controls both hall lights Switch 2 turns on & off both the hall lights. Switch 3 turns on & off both the hall...

That doesnt look too difficult to do. I'm working away today and tomorrow so I'll have a crack at it over the weekend. Thank you both again, i'll report back with how i get on and will make sure to number/label the wires in case i mess up some how ;)

Your diagram looks accurate to me and very clear/easy to understand. Looks like you've both figured it out anyhow, but should it help i've marked the cables which are sheathed/sleeved. Again, thank you both for the help so far ;) The blue & black in switch 1 are connected with a terminal block

I think Securespark has understood what i have poorly portrayed. The left most double switch controls an outside light and entrance hall light. The next double switch (was originally located on the other side of the stud wall) controls the entrance hall light and the hall light. The single...

Wow, i wasnt expecting this when i checked back on the post! Also, just to reassure those concerned I have no intention of blindly connecting wires to holes unless i can see the logic behind it. If it looks too difficult or is going to be a lot of hassle (which im starting think it maybe) then i...

hopefully photos will make more sense than my explanation of the connections. also, thank you for taking the time to help, its much appreciated ;) Switch1 (double, 2 gang - operates entrance hall light and outside light) Switch2 (double 2 gang- operates entrance hall light and main hall...

ok cheers. ill confirm the connections/colours shortly. the house is a fairly new (less than 20yrs old). i have no idea why they though it was necessary to have this number of switches. now the wall has been removed i can literally reach both switches without taking a single step as they're in...

I've just removed a small stud wall/door way between the entrance hall and main hall. Before the re-plastering and decorating starts i'd like to reduce the number of light switches if possible. Photo/diagram below to give you a better idea of what i am talking about. As you can see there's a...

so capping them is a 'no no'. the rad pipes are buried in the wall so tracing them back to the mainfold would be difficult, at least for me. to avoid dead legs, couldnt i just bridge the flow and return pipes instead?

I have two small radiators at either end of my hall way. I would like to remove one completely and replace the other with a larger radiator. For the rad i intend to remove, should i just cut and cap the pipes behind the wall or is it better to join/bridge the two ends?

Cheers Chappers I went with clear satin varnish in the end. I tried some osmo oil on an off cut from the newel post but didnt like the end results. Also, the timber supplier i got the osmo oil from also supplied Chrome Axxy cap/covers so i ended up using these rather than oak pellets or...

So i spent the bank holiday fitting an Axxys Clearview stair kit (oak newel posts, handrail, baserail and glass rackes). I also intend to cover the tread/risers with an Oak StairKlad kit to complete the look. I have a couple of questions for the pros if you dont mind: - I was planing on...

Thanks Doggit. I was hoping to completely replace the old newel posts (bottom and top right, going from photos above) with new full oak ones. The plan was to do away with the top left newel which i have just done so. We didnt feel this served any purpose and as Tigercurbridge pointed out, it was...

Hmmm ok thanks. Starting to sway towards getting a the pros in for this. I've fit the Burbidge Fusion stuff in our last house but i got away with reusing the existing newel bases. This is starting to sound beyond my carpentry skills.

But wouldnt that leave part of the original white post visible? I assume you mean like the image below (nicked from youtube). I was hoping i could remove the whole bottom post as well as the top ones, then fit a new full oak post using some kind of zip bolt or other fastener? The ground floor...

ok so if cut the left hand post off at floor level this wouldnt weaken the staircase? it looks like they also sell the smaller landing glass panel fillers too. have emailed a few suppliers with my dimensions and photos. hopefully one of them will come up with a plan of the parts i'll need.

Good idea, i'll grab the dimensions and email them to the supplier along with those photos. I definitely wont be replacing the whole staircase, at the moment its just going to be the baserail, handrail, posts and panels. Saying that the same Axxy's supplier also sells oak tread & riser cladding...