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Go on the cc part mate you'll get a response on there as you are an rgi

the readings will drop quickly after tripping as pump overrun occurs to drop temps in boiler for safety. burner cuts out immediatly after overheat, pump continues to run to disperse heat into system, thus dropping temp+ resistance readings. ps. if temperature+ resistances rising after overheat...

if overheat stat hasn't been changed after tripping so may times then it could now be tripping at a lower temperature(nuisance tripping), try changing this, if not then pump could be worn(reason for spindle not rising fully) or restrictions in boiler, as you've said plate was dirty. p.s...

is your heating on when you are using your hot water? agree with gordengas get bg out as they'll always advise a new boiler cause of it's age(if it's 12 to 15 yrs old, so if parts are available then it should be fixed

have you checked the prv pipe outside is not dripping when boiler is pressurised?

hi mate, is your kitchen sink further away than your bathroom taps?, possibly just the hot water diaphragm stretched/holed!

hi dude, think you missed a bit, she said dripping from plastic pipe

clearly, why dont you try the" i dont want to pay much for work that needs a qualified engineer to do cos i'll do most of the work and take out most of the profit that the engineer relies on to run a business" forum!!!!!!!!! do you take your car to a tyre garage and say " yes mate just bring me...

do you not realise that this guy quoting you is a fully trained, qualified prob time served gas engineer trying to run a business/earn his living??? there you go trying to make him do his job for a minute proportion of what he could normally get on other jobs. you're having a laugh :evil:

yes but it's best to get rgi to check it out as they will know how to check it to confirm resistances.

most likely could be central heating sensor faulty

all problems leading to those symptoms require an rgi to diagnose and fix, cos they require accessing electrics and combustion chamber,

as jamespl said most likely diverter valve or diaphgram

take off lockshield valves to confirm you have flow through both sides of rad

who is your service with, cos i would probably phone them and tell them you have a problem, cos they can then make the time available to attend to the problem as well as the service, cos they will only be expecting time for the service on the job.

it will still spark if no gas, as boiler cant identify gas flow but, if you can affect it by banging on the control box then pos pcb/aps faulty, you need to confirm 240v at gas valve when fault occurs, if 240v present then gas valve at fault, but get a gas engineer in to fix!

depends if your filling loop is external or not, but going on your thread it should be the silver braided pipe connecting two pipes, it is this braided pipe you need to remove by unscrewing it off each valve it connects to,you may need some pliers to start it off! make sure your only undoing the...

yeh mate, thats why the flue should be level, cos if rain water drives at the flue terminal and the flue is at an angle then, the rain flows back towards boiler via the air duct and then drips down through flue brackets and onto boiler casing!

i know BONKERS REALLY :roll: :lol:

can you hear the ignition giving a steady clicking when attempting to light? also when was the boiler serviced last? cos the pilot may need cleaning out.