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So do you agree that it is the water and not the copper that is the conductor? Or is it both? Surely this isnt equipotential bonding then? Any other suggestions?

Cheers FWL, What about when there are metal fittings ie. taps, on a totally plastic install? I cannot change the plastic push-on fittings... Still struggling here guys...

thanks Dam surely each exposed metal part eg, taps, are actually insulated by the plastic push-on fittings and therefore bonding is not required? Cant get my head around this... Help!

Bathroom - Copper pipes with plastic push on fittings/joints - supplementary bonded or not? ta

nope, car sales forecourt

thanks m, it is expected that the equipment is to be used outside. The supply is not tt, but a tns set up. That is why i feel it should have 30ma protection. As it stands, the sockets can and are being used outside with 100ma protection. (the 100ma rcd tripped in 45ms at X 1.) Is the...

A portable building has a 3 way board controlled via 63a 100mma trip. This is fed via a messy three phase tns system. The protable building has lights, sockets & heater circuits. The electrical components were installed and certified by the party supplying the building. Surely the board...

Cheers JerryD, Any idea where i can get this info?

yes. And my extractor fan isnt working to its potential and i think this is the problem...

Ive seen architects drawings that indicate a minimum clearance between the bottom of a bathroom door and the FFL. I appreciate this will vary for different size bathrooms and their ventilation requirements, but is there a 'rule of thumb' or guidelines available? thanks

Yeah, bloody nuisance. And dont know if a bigger fan will do the job. I still think the main problem is the lack of space below the door...

[. Did you have to create the hole through the wall? If so, did you use a core drill or drill many holes with a masonary bit and then knock out? Didnt drill the wall. The fan grill was in the ceiling and ducted to the soffit.

BAS, come from a maintenance gackground. Thing is, problems were rectified but without really fully appreciating the implications. I have my own opinion, but i enjoy hearing others...

But it chaffs... what about my other suggestions?

Fitted a fan into a bathroom with a 'power shower', which produces a hell of a lot of steam. The bathroom is approx 10 feet X 6 feet X 7 feet. The fan was a Manrose 4 inch inline fan with timer. Some observations: the fan does not adequately extract the steam. there is an obvious...

Would the reversed L/N affect anything that had a small motor ?

So an incomplete earth ring is not dangerous? the socket had one earth connected but the other was not...

every days a schools day... cheers. The lamp is a GU 10 (PAR) and should do the job

When doing the R1 + R2 test for a ring recently i found there was a break in the earth. A couple of questions to the householder and i was directed to an area that had been recently redecorated. The socket was removed and an earth wire jumped out at me. What are the implications of this...

I thought GU10s only came as non dichroic? Couldnt actually see an 'F' marked on the fitting so will need to contact the manufacturer - Ansell. thanks