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So my shed wall 3x2 cls studwork covered with 11mm OSB panels. On the diagram below there's also an 18x94mm door liner and a 20x38mm trim (architrave) If I fitted the hinges as appears normal, with the buckle aligned with the edge of the door, then the screws holding the other leaf would be...

Can you not replace the side panel on the wine unit with the end panel - that's what I did with mine.

The fact it took a couple of hours is only relevant if they cut corners - the scaffolding costs probably the same as for 3 days - also not much different between 2h and 1 day as far as labour goes - unlikely they'd start another job on the same day as they'd have had to allow extra time in case...

My shed roof slopes front to back and the RHS butts up against a building, there's an overhang on the building of 20cm going over the shed roof, which offers some protection, but I'm concerned that in heavy rain, water running down the roof could flow a little sideways and down between the roof...

Ah - sorry thought I'd put in my OP, this is a raised concrete pad that will be entirely covered by the shed.

How would water "lie on the concrete" The only way the concrete can get wet is by soaking it up from underneath - I'm fairly sure that that will never result in pooling.

I've got a roll of DPM about 20cm wide - was thinking of cutting a length, rolling it to make a long tube, held with a piece of tape, and squashing that between my bottom plates and the concrete slab to both make a seal and protect the plate from dampness coming up through the concrete...

Look closely at the base - they screw right down so they're flush - I've known people before to think there were no legs because of this. You just unscrew them to the length required.

Does it not have legs you can extend??

DOuble stud aye - king and jack

The bottom plate is treated anyway and on a concrete pad 6" above ground height - it will get wet until I get the shed completed because the gutter overspills onto the pad (4 storey flats - nothing I can do about that), but I'm not particularly worried about the treated stuff. You're right...

So I'm building a shed in November lol. My plan is to get the frame built and the roof on before I board out the sides and clad, but how safe will the frame be in the rain? The bottom plate is treated, but the rest of it - if it gets wet for a couple of days before I can roof it, does it matter?

Use a table saw to trim the T & G off, put the "cut" end at the top and reprotect all the timber exposed by the cuts. I was going to do this myself and this was the advice I was given. Now I'm switching to using fence posts for my corners instead.

The Dyson will be fine - just wash the filter afterwards and make sure you don't over fill the bin!

Aye - it's worth reading all the comments on most of the YouTube videos - quite often the mistakes have been pointed out One thing I'm learning too is plan plan plan before you start buying stuff - not just what it looks like, but timescales, where you're going to store the timber while you...

Flat roof, 4 degree pitch, If I used 2x2 (47x50) rafters on an 400mm spacing with 18mm OSB on top, 1320mm span, would this be strong enough? Seen people use 4x2's for this but it seems a bit overkill on my narrow shed.

Are you sure it's 3m x 4m - that's enormous! This vid descirbes a fairly simply structure - should be enough to give you an idea of what you'd need so you can start drawing up a budget.

It's very wide - 3m20, but very shallow - 1m 30. My main concern is the long front wall which will have a double door in the middle. I'll run a 4x2 across the top of the jackstuds but I guess this wall will be the weak point.

The 10 x 4 lean-to shed I'm building is costing me about £600, although about £150 of that is the concrete base

Which is better to use for a shed frame? 3x2 CLS (38x63) untreated or 2x2 (47x50) treated