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Depends on the situation really. I've done both methods. Drilling through the joist means you dont have to chase out all the way up the joist. I drill through with a 20mm wood bit then a 20mm masonry bit into the wall the same depth as your chase then chase upwards behind joist. i sometimes find...

I would put an offset in the copper so that you end up with a straight piece of copper within the chase but below the joist then i would solder a socket onto the copper running down the wall. No joints behind the joist and will be a bit tricky feeding it through and will have to drill a bigger...

Drill through joist at a 45 degree angle downwards till you hit the masonry. Then put a chase in the wall.

Isolation valves. He means if they work (hold) you wont have to drain down

Dont worry about it, it will be fine

I always use a bit of mould resistant sanitary silicone.;)

I did my acs at leeds college of building. When you say meter work i take it you mean installation of meters?

Are you currently employed or self employed? Would probably help you to be flexible and not just available on evenings weekends etc. Have you tried asking in merchants etc?

Thanks for pointing that out.

Yes a is call and b is common. I think it will still work if wires reversed

Sounds like the expansion vessel needs re charging though

sounds like hes released the pressure using the pressure relief valve. not sure why he didnt just check the expansion vessel while he was there?

Yes.

Can get a lot of clicking when the rads have been fitted without the plastic edges that you fit onto the brackets. would mean lifting the rads off to check though

Yes they do sorry not the best at posting links but plumbcentre do them.

Yes slides in and out. I have used them once and they leaked after about a month or so. dont bother, either get a solid extension or use a piece of chrome pipe into a chrome male iron to copper.

The pressure reading on your boiler Has nothing to do with the pressure at the shower. What's the pressure like on the old shower? You need to check pressure and flow rates at the shower then look at the instructions to your new shower to see if their suitable. Maybe the reason your shower goes...

Well if you can find a work around will be less hassle/time. I had the profile on for the shower door also but luckily hadn't fitted the door and the silicone hadn't quite set so wasn't a massive problem. Good luck

Your tile doesn't look like its grouted yet should be a couple of hours max to remove and replace, just depends whether you have the depth behind to set the valve further back. I made the mistake of fitting a tile last week without checking the plate coverage grouted everwhere and when i came to...

Hard to tell on my phone but the bypass can make a strange noise on these and can be adjusted.