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Can you scrape the pipe on the right to check it is steel, if it's soft its lead. Assuming it's all steel it will be all threaded I can't make out the device to the left of the piece that you arrowed. It could be some sort of joiner. Turn the water off and see if you can release it. If it comes...

I'm guessing steel before the stopcock, I seem to recognise the stopcock's threaded end. 3/4 BSP? If it is there's plenty of adaptors available

Cheers for speedy reply. It looks like it's worth doing then

I'm wondering if it could be some kind of flow regulator. I'd take it out anyway

A question to you experienced guys out there I'm about to change my standard bath to a P shaped bath for showering. I noticed that there are 15mm feeds to the hot and cold taps, this is on a conventional gravity fed system As I rarely use the bath as such , only showering, is it worth changing...

I have cured the problem in the past by changing the starter, that's why I said to try this first. Easy if it works but might not

Hi Guys, some advice needed here I had an extension built above my adjoining garage to the depth of the house a while ago, this gave me 2 rooms with a narrow passageway between the 2. I fitted rads in the 2 rooms but non in neither the new or existing upstairs landings, I have a rad in the...

Try changing the starter first

Things are looking good, try to thread a bit of 1mm cable along the trunking to your existing rose, you will only need the red or brown depending on age of your stocks and job is easy after that Turn off mcb to your lights, connect live to to middle 3 connections ( you will only need 2, one...

What I was trying to verify first is are the 2 taped cables neutrals, if they are you should get 240v between them and live You just need to run a cable from switched live to your new rose as I said before

Does the channel run to your existing fitting? Is it 240v between the earth and the taped cables? It looks like they're joined for continuity to the next fitting, if you want to work both lights off one switch you will need to join into the switched live to reach the new fitting. The...

Not being an expert, I had the same noisy pump/system when the water got hotter after changing from gravity fed HW/ pumped CH to fully pumped The boiler was re sited to the garage from the kitchen. The problem was the returns were teed off too far away from the boiler( just underneath the HW...

I bumped into an old plumber friend of mine, he reckons Ideal are on the up because they listen to feedback from installers and act quickly to address any design problems Hope this helps

Sounds like you have a fault that won't allow it to switch on. Can you remove the front cover and take out the live conductor from the mcb, if you can see if the breaker switches on, if no the MCB is at fault If it switches on you will have a fault. Is there any sign of damp? While you have...

Probably a bit late, just noticed your problem There shouldn't be such a temp difference as the live & neutral current should be equal, at least within 30ma or the RCD would trip It sure sounds like damage to the neutral conductor ie. a cut or narrowing which lessens the csa If you can...

Sounds like you propose to have it sited in the back garden, bad news I would say, normally mains arrive from the front Also they won't like any building work on top of it should you want to extend backwards or a conservatory

When you say outside the house, will it be from the passage to just outside the front door? If it's inline with the existing incomer all they need to do is dig out the trench to expose the cable and shorten it I had this done years ago when moving it from inside the garage to the outside...

yes thats the standard pump for most houses. Unless you live in a mansion or skyscaper it will be ok As i'm probably tight on spending money I dont have to I would completely flush the system from the lowest point keeping the water topping up the expansion tank Turn the boiler temp to zero...

in that case hit the pump with a hammer gently could be sludge build up had that before as well, it sounds like its turning, you will still get a vibration but might of stalled Hope this works

I put my own system in years ago and have had the same problem once, it turned out to be the CH zone valve that wasn't opening even though it was being called to open You might have a diverter valve but same problem might be happening Check this first in my limited experience