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I have read it all, and looked up many of the references. Its actually quite a short report as these things go, and quite accessible to an educated layman. I have also read the full Working group 1 reports of IPCC AR5 and 6 which amount to many thousands of pages and form the main reference...

There is always debate in science. There is not just one 'science' in the area of climate; there is a huge range of ideas and opinions. Anyone who tells you otherwise is actually trying to stifle debate - and thereby stifle 'science'.

'Five of the world's most prominent climate scientists who are sceptical of many of the claims made' would be a more correct statement. That these are prominent scientists people can judge for themselves by reading their credentials on page 140 of the linked report. As a taster: John...

You've not referenced your headline, but the language used shows that whoever wrote it is out to smear, rather than engage in constructive criticism. It uses the label 'skeptic' (American spelling) rather than the label 'scientist' which is what the authors are (including one economist). The...

There is an excellent review of the current science available here: https://www.energy.gov/topics/climate Full paper https://www.energy.gov/sites/default/files/2025-07/DOE_Critical_Review_of_Impacts_of_GHG_Emissions_on_the_US_Climate_July_2025.pdf This has a one page executive summary, and a...

The tree was rather photogenic but in my opinion the better view was with your back to the tree looking south. Have a wander around via google maps and see what you think - especially from the top of the banks beside the tree. https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@55.0032542,-2.3740126,18z The spot is...

Thanks for the reassurance. I'll get that done today.

I'm fitting a pre-made frame for a set of folding doors and wondering what to fix the jambs and header with. The kit has come with direct frame fixings around 6.5x90 which would be fine going into masonry, but I'll be fixing into stud, so wondered if those are the right thing to use? I also have...

Good point, and also a good reason not to go smaller than 150mm. I did wonder about keeping it large, but that does mean more heat loss when its not in use. I'll stay with the 150 and if I find it too noisy then with using the insulation boards inside the existing sleeving I always have the...

To maintain the existing extraction capability? I think that's what is expected? I've no idea what the extraction rate of the original fan was, but it was big enough to be described (in the old Rolls-Royce description of their engine outputs) as 'sufficient', and the 150mm gives an extraction...

As an outer leaf for weatherproofing? That would make sense, and I think I have an offcut somewhere. That would give me (from outside working in) cement board, 90mm insulation board, shroud, 90mm insulation board, plasterboard, skim. Does that sound like a plan?

Yes, although the board would be a fair way inside the duct, its not going to last constant exposure, and insulation will be important. So then, I'm looking for a weather resistant insulating board that will fit both sides of the shroud, filling the space, and a piece of plasterboard on the...

I have an old Xpelair 10" fan in the kitchen that is being replaced with a new 150mm fan. The exisiting ducting is pretty solidly in place, and well sleeved, so I'd like to avoid the mess and hassle of removing it and rebricking. My current thoughts are to use some 150mm ducting to run from...

With panels that need to be neat, I've been cutting them slightly short of the cut line, and then using a sander to take the excess back to the line. Gives me a good edge and better control, especially when scribing.

All done! I used two bits of wood clamped on as a guide, scored with a blade, then cut carefully with a handsaw. Its a lovely clean cut, no breakout that I can see, and I'll need to shave less than a mm off in one place with the sander. Really pleased with that, and thanks again for the guidance.

Ah, got it. Yes, I can see how that would help guide, but I only have two flat sides and the curve so will have to see if I can position in such a way that the circular saw can get at it. Its 100mm each side, so that may mean a cut from both sides. I think I'll score it as Notch suggests...

Thanks for the tips, very helpful. Don't quite follow how the plywood offcuts would work as a jig? One against each flat side and let that guide through the curve?

Thanks Andy. Its not fitted yet, so free to move it around. I don't have a chop saw though. I have a bench to work on, just unsure how to best go about cutting it.

I need to cut this radiused corner post to the needed height, and mulling over the best tool and approach to the cut. A good finish would be ideal, but the cut will end up below the worksurface, so not too critical. I have a hand saw, and a circular saw. My thoughts are to cut it slightly...

Wiggle room! Its a 40mm pipe, but putting the unit in position over it needs a little manoeuvring space.