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The diverter valve controls your system water to the rads or the plate heat exchanger whereas the water in the diaphragm section (364) is mains water, the two never mix.

Update: I see your existing control is single channel so the Salus 510RF should be ok on its own .

The Salus 510RF is just a wireless programmable room thermostat and on its own is suitable for a combi boiler, for a system boiler you would need you existing programmer for HW time control.

Always a good sign if you get some bubbling noise, turn your boiler thermostat to maximum and just wait the hotter the water is the more it expands and that should help, good luck.

You would need to contact the manufacturers or their agents to find out about parts availability. Try useing a small mirror to help see the back of the valve?

Sound like your expansion vessel is flat, need to drain your boiler then pump up expansion vessel to .9 bar then refill boiler.

hard to say really, when its all together does it look like the leak is in the area of that brass nut with the 2 screws?

You are correct.

Run the HW only for 30 minutes and check if any of the primary pipework in the airing cupboard get warm.

Hi, dont know if your aware of this but if you eco green light is not illuminated then your preheat is switched on which means your boiler will fire up for a short period every 30 minutes or so even when there is no demand for CH or HW . System pressure should be around 1.2 bar when cold and...

No the screws are only to hold the two parts together, not to make a water tight seal, you need to identify if the leak is from the brass nut or the bottom part of the diaphragm housing unit (364), if you slacken the screws and ease them apart while it still under pressure you should see which...

Do you mean the brass nut with the 3 screws in? Did part 363 not come with a new one as it has a small O ring seal which the centre pin of part 363 passes through, what make & model is your boiler?

Couldn't you feel any heat in your primary flow, the 1" (28mm) pipe that comes off the left hand side ?

Thats correct, you may need to remove those 2 small copper pipe also to give good access.

A big NO but you never know, it is approved for water and they claim it been tested at above 500 psi, or the installer had one too many, fluxed it and forgot to solder it :-)

I too would say set your boiler temperature higher if you want to get the room warmer & quicker, it more about the returning temperature of the water as to when the boiler starts condencing but a bigger part of the boilers efficiency is due to the larger surface area of its heat exchanger as...

Your burner will eventually cut out if the set water temperature is reached no matter what temperature you set the room thermostat, it will however fire up again when the water temperature drops due to the pump continues to circulate the water until the room thermostat setting is reached.

First fit part 363 into valve body then slacken those grub screws fit part 364 into part 363 align it and then tighten screws.

You said you got a strong jet of water from the toilet radiator when you bled it, try bleeding it with only one of the valves turned on at a time and see if you get the same from both flow & return.

I dont know much about the Vokera Compact but had similar problem with Vaillant combi's where preheat/warmstart was turned on and boiler auto bypass was letting by.