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It is. Our transformer is 64A according to the data plate. We went for his 80A option for future proofing and to minimise voltage drop for circuits run on to the other outbuildings. Wouldn't have saved that much if we'd gone for 60A (presumably 16sq.mm)

Yes it is. It's 25sq.mm and the sparky who installed it rated it as 80A. As it happens there's probably head room even if you did add actual garage load onto solar instead of subtracting. But maybe not if he went round trotting up every power tool or appliance and wanted to allow for...

Hi, This relates to questions I have been asked by the installer. I have suggested the inverter connects to the garage DB which is fed from the house by SWA. The installer has asked for details of existing loads in the garage to confirm the cable has capacity for the "extra" current from the...

I think the machine walked off the counter at some time, and the resulting yank on the cable pulled it through the strain relief which stripped the sheath off part of the flex. I can bodge by pulling a few inches back into the machine so the clamp tightens on undamaged sheath. I guess...

Like JohnW2 ours has a plastic strain relief clamp on the inside, which also forms a plastic bushing between the mains lead and the (metal) chassis. From inside ... And from outside (sorry about the focus) ..

Mine has a similar insert. But I must say I'm really surprised that the chassis is plastic, rather than aluminium. Especially as those two corners complete with the completely squashed feet look exactly like ours. Normally you expect older models to be metal, replaced with plastic in more...

See my second picture, if one of those soldered connections came apart (unlikely I know) then the shroud does nothing to stop the loose wire touching the upper part of the chassis. I think all the shroud achieves is preventing fingers from touching those uninsulated conductors when the mixer is...

Thanks. Parts on order are all the speed control components, brushes, and feet. When we'll get these is another matter, not only all the Bank Holidays but the fact that our drive is likely to be impassible to normal vehicles until we have a bit more of a thaw.

You're probably correct. The risk I was thinking of was that damaged flex, passing through the metal chassis, although it would also need to pull the plastic clamp out as well before a conductor could touch the metal.

Some quick photos. First the metal chassis, the parts that are exposed and handled when the mixer is fully assembled. The motor wiring, I must say I don't really understand why this would be "double" insulated but then I don't know how that term is defined. Note the exploded capacitors and...

The metal chassis is most definitely touchable, it forms the base where you fit the bowl, the bit that pivots up and holds the motor and the control knob. I would also include the gearbox as that's metal cased and bolts onto that second part, so potentially that might extend to the attachment...

Cheers. What would be the danger from adding one? I should say I'm not completely set on it, just worth a consideration if I replace the flex. The existing was damaged by being pulled through the strain relief which stripped off the sheath and damaged but did not penetrate the insulation. I...

Hi, Our Kenwood Chef A901P is in bits waiting for me to fix the speed control circuit. Looking at other bits the flex looks a bit rough so I might replace that. The original is two cord, is there any reason not to replace it with three core and fit the earth to some part of the metal chassis...

I believe if it's shipped direct from outside the UK, then legally the purchaser is the importer. The company paid, are they UK based or are they also overseas?

So in England do buyers routinely ask for paperwork for every part of the electrical installation before making an offer, or as a condition? Or is it a legal requirement to provide it? My experience (in Scotland) is that they don't. I was once asked for an Envirosearch report, which we...

This is probably an England/Scotland difference, but every home report or pre sale survey I have seen has always been "hands off" on electrics. Generally they just make a vague comment like "May not conform to current standards" or "The fusebox is of an older style" as our own house was...

What I mean is there's been no suggestion from the OP that the house needs rewiring, so why is he being advised to tell a purchaser that it's needed? I can't see any reference to him being asked anything by "the buying agent" either, not at this stage. But yes if he was asked "do you have...

Why would he talk the price down, unless there is genuine reason to suspect it needs to be rewired? The way I read it the OP was happy with the work, but is just short on paperwork.

I was surprised myself when I looked at the receipt, it doesn't look that harsh. I'd need to look at the actual bulb to confirm. However you're right I probably wouldn't choose that. Thanks for the recommendation, LED lights have obviously come on if they are now switchable between colours.

It would also power all their neighbours.