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Thanks. Do you happen to know if it's possible to test the frost stat operation so I can see exactly what happens when it kicks in? Save having to trace all the wiring in both boiler and junction box. Because if our installation works the way you say then I need to look for another fault...

It still doesn't sound right taking 50 minutes to bring the HW cylinder up to temp. I assume it would be stone cold in the morning, unless your son really ran his shower until it ran cold.

That would make sense but I haven't confirmed that this is how ours is actually configured. However if that's how it's set then it wouldn't cause the issue we're seeing which is the pump running with both valves closed. There's an alternative configuration noted on the diagram which connects...

I had a chance to trace the diagrams for the boiler and it doesn't seem to me that the frost protection stat would (should) trigger the pump. See attached diagram .. Whether that's exactly how ours is wired up is a different matter of course. Also attached the internal module wiring, again I...

I've ordered a couple of replacement switches from RS, same as I used before.

Thanks, I hadn't thought about frost protection. The boiler is an outside module and I'm trawling through the installation diagrams to try and see whether its frost protection is self contained, or whether it should also operate the circulation pump (which is in the house, not in the module)...

Can you give a diagram or description of how these elements are controlled? Pump "over run" normally refers to the pump running on after the heating load goes off, to keep water moving through the boiler while it cools down. Are any of the controls triggered by pipe thermostats, with a low...

Our heating has two 2 port valves for heating and hot water, each with a switch that closes when the valve is near to fully open. These switches are in parallel with one side permanent live and the other side signalling to the pump and boiler. Early last year the switch in the CH actuator...

That's exactly how they would be used. Two pipes on one side of the boiler providing gravity feed to a high level HW cylinder, and the pair on the other side pumped for heating. The house I grew up in was set up that way, converted from original coke boiler. Like you I can't see any benefit...

I'll take up your offer, with many thanks ..

Thank to everyone. The load is just under 45W, the manufacturer only quotes total power of 45W which includes a permanently running circulation fan. The heater is some sort of resistive tape, so I'm guessing not significantly inductive. I don't have a circuit diagram but from examining the...

Thanks. I'll have another looks but I don't think there is any sign of any writing after the TIC2. Or did you mean that TIC216 might be a suitable replacement/alternative? "Philippines" was what I unconsciously read, although in fact there's not enough room for there to have been "PIN" in...

Hi, This is the control board for a poultry incubator, it regulates temperature by pulsing 240V output to the heater. When it's heating up the heater is on full, when it's in control it pulses on and off. The fault is that it can't get up to temperature, it will control stably to a lower...

Quick update as I had a chance to look at this again. That section with the L and N connections is a separate plastic piece bridging and retaining the actual switch Underneath is a perfectly ordinary microswitch .. and the RS part that was suggested by Alec is a direct replacement ...

Brilliant, thanks for that.

Maybe I need a picture to illustrate, and I can't do that just now. However to explain the L and N cores of the five core flex terminate with what looks like female spade terminals. So do the two leads from the motor, also with female connectors. The connections between these female are made...

Hi, Does anyone know of a source for the microswitch inside the Dayton ZA5 actuator? I can see that the switch as fitted has extra terminals to link incoming Live and N to the synchronous motor, but if the new switch didn't have these it would be easy enough to join these in some other way...

Thanks everyone. I was looking into recycled plastic boards, but I don't think they'd be strong enough for a 44" span as they're intended for decking. Easy answer in the short term would be to replace the existing slats with pressure treated. The actual thickness needs to be greater than 2"...

Hi, Our garage has a concrete floor and concrete inspection pit. Currently the pity is covered with wooden slats of around 2" thick but varying in both thickness and width. They're pretty rotten and I've replaced a couple. I've found that a sheet of 3/4" plywood over the top gives a level...

I've found the LED bulbs from Home Bargains to be pretty good. Time will tell about longevity but none have failed yet. They do ES in 6, 9 and 12W. Even if you just used them to confirm the power needed, they're only £1.59 each.