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Sorry, maybe I have understand wrongly... they are unvented because they have expansion tanks? When I mentioned look inside I mean unscrew the lid and look inside? Or is that not possible with these types of cylinders... haven't tried it!

So I managed to find the manual for this range of cylinders. The gate valve has been put in number 2 which is the domestic hot water outlet.

Yes, I'm just confused how I would figure this out. Does it basically mean you should open the lid of the cylinder and look inside? I guess I'm wondering if it is worth sinking in time and money to get this cylinder operational, or if it is better to just invest in one cylinder to replace them...

I've also noticed that the plumber fitted both diverter valves which are connected to the thermostats on each tank on the return to the boiler from the cylinder. Each cylinder has a diverter valve on its return, so one cylinder can be open. However this means that if its on the return to the...

I've put some sensors on my flow pipes and have noticed the hot water cylinder calls for heat almost every hour - just for a short time about 15 to 30 mins - I'm guessing this is because of the secondary hot water circulation pump (on all day). With the 2012 WB 40 CDI which operates at a min...

Yes so I tried that - but when I shut both restrictors (gate valves) the hot flow slows to a trickle - when I open the slow cylinder, it stays at a trickle. When I open the fast cylinder, the hot water flows out like normal. I did not shut the cold inlets though as I figured the tank was already...

Yes to both - each has a vessel and PRV

Thanks for your reply, yes it is odd to have two cylinders - I think it could have been because of where they fitted them in the loft eaves, even thought they could have moved them slightly and had a taller one. I really cannot understand why the cylinders do not drain evenly as they both feed...

I've attached a picture, you can see the little white valve above the black underfloor pump below the boiler in the middle. It has the flow and return connected to the valve. This valve was connected as part of the boiler installation (retrofit) about 10 years ago now. I think originally the...

Wow, I am surprised at how low you can set your temperatures and be comfortable inside the house. My family are shivering with temps below 20 degrees but I suspect this is because we grew up near the equator!

HI there. I've posted another thread on this forum regarding my high gas consumption. This thread is specifically regarding the awkward hot water cylinder setup I've inherited with the house but am now looking to change. The house came with two Geminox EBS-1 200 litre hot water tanks which...

Yes I don't have hard data. I'm going by the fact that the house was built by a reputable niche builder - and that they used beam block on one of the intermediate floors plus a well insulated slab on the ground floor and pitched roof insulation. Boiler is serviced annually. I think the...

Thanks for explaining this. I've reread it a few times (just a novice myself) to understand. Just a question for you here. So let's assume I am thinking just about one floor, the ground floor which has wet underfloor heating only. Assume this is 140sqm so cubed 280sqm. We have people at home...

Thanks for all the tips and information about the seminar (I missed it!). I have paid for their heat calculation (see above). What I am trying to work out is how the boiler is modulating based on the amount of heat demand. So I have range rated the boiler, now it is at 70% of the output. Max...

Thanks - I think the high gas usage is due to the system somehow being inefficiently designed - i.e. due to the low loss header, multiple pumps and zoning we have the issues of getting the right flow temperature to the right circuit (whereas now I am suspecting this could possibly be distorted...

So I used the Heat Engineer heat loss calculation and it suggested based on my peak usage as assumptions (i.e. when guests are here) and with the lowest assumptions regarding insulation / glazing etc (i.e. I used Building Regs 2006 but I think my house is better than those) that the hot water is...

Actually I think a better setup for a larger house is to be able to do both hot water and heating at the same time which is why we originally put in a low loss header. The UF is already separate at the header as you suggest. Could you please explain the difference betwen the ESBE mixing valve...

Thanks, the issue with a large house is getting the PIRs to the 6 locations while concealing the wiring ... so it wouldn't easily be feasible to do this. Wireless PIRs could be unreliable due to beam/block floors and block walls.

That is an interesting idea with the PIR sensors ! I've just spoken with a pump sales company that was suggesting a Grundfos hot water circulator with Auto Adapt would be able to better sense the hot water circulation requirements and therefore waste less hot water... it would be a cost of...

Thanks for putting down your thoughts and having a look all at this! I've done a back of the envelope heat loss calculation based on guidelines shown on Heat Geek - which suggests annual consumption for a modern 5,000sqft house should be 40,000kw for both heating and hot water. I think the...