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Not something (bit of the old flush valve washer) gone down the flush- pipe and partly blocking the entry?

If that brown is connected to Earth as it seems to be then changing it to Live would not be a good idea without altering other connections. You appear to have L & N into that switch and just the blue wire leaving it. so no N to system. This does not make sense as you say that the valve operates...

I always print this out when asked to fit one: My recently installed Saniflo does not behave as described in the user manual. On flushing the WC it's supposed to run continuously for about 15 seconds, mine pulses on-off 3 or 4 times for about 2-3 seconds duration. Any ideas? Peter replied...

Seals on this pump are not designed for mains pressure

Does that black elbow unscrew from the sink fitting leaving you a 1 1/2 thread to accept the 2 bowl kit? Doesn't look like it but your picture doesn't show that bit very well.

Trap comes with 2 little blue plugs which blank off these connections and I always leave them in the sink unit so that if the appliance has to be removed, sink can continue to be used. Otherwise, wine bottle cork or remove nozzle and stuff with tissue, bit of rag etc.

Do you have a single bowl with overflow and do you want a pop up waste ?

Sorry I meant using new tail and existing nut and olive

Looks to me like a straight swap leaving existing tail and nut and olive.

Replace the basket strainer waste as said. Sink has an overflow so bit of tape over that and plug washing machine /dishwasher connections. Now fill sink with hot water and plunge.

Does it not finish with a fitting which will accept a standard 1 1/2 trap? Photo of complete kit would help

Sounds like you have found it. I usually run shower till hot side of the valve is hot. Then turn off shower. Hot side will now go cold to the touch.

Mixer taps (including kitchen) would only be a problem when used. A shower or blending valve would not need to be in use. Do you have a shower with tank fed hot and mains cold?

Your existing rad, assuming it is a convector, will have an output of roughly 1100 watts. A 600 x 700 double convector will have an similar output.

You can actually ignore the hw off connections, they just connect to each other and nothing else. It is a diagram adapted from a y plan diagram.

And of course any shower valve or blending valve

It may be that when heating is running aavs are at negative pressure so allowing air to be drawn in. With heating off and after the noise has stopped, tighten the dust caps on the aavs. If this cures it then replace aavs with manual vents

With heating only the boiler temperature is controlled by o/s sensor. If hw is then required, boiler would not give enough heat to get the cylinder hot. Hw on will override o/s sensor till cylinder is satisfied then hw off will hand back control to o/s sensor

Or you could skip the ptfe and put a rubber washer in the fitting, 2 if necessary

You need the level low enough to allow for expansion when heating gets up to temperature. Turn off the cold main supply to the tank for a day and see if the problem goes away. Your garage is taller than your house?