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I promise we are not:LOL: It genuinely is just a coincidence!

I understand your dad’s hesitation — nobody wants to start cutting into stairs without being sure. That said, lightly undercutting the side rail (the stringer) to allow laminate to slide underneath is very common practice. You’re not cutting into anything structural in a meaningful way, just...

Ahh yes, that definitely needs finishing off properly, especially if you can feel a draught coming through. What you’re missing is a threshold strip, and it would have been covering that gap before. The fitter’s right that the floor can’t sit on top of the door frame if there isn’t enough...

You don’t need Building Regulations approval just to change the floor finish. You’re not altering the structure or the subfloor, so BC won’t be interested. That said, laying LVT directly over parquet is where I’d pause slightly. Parquet blocks can look solid but still have small areas of...

Yes, you’re on the right track, 6mm ply is a common way to build up height over chipboard before laying LVT. A couple of key points though: Use flooring grade ply, not standard shuttering ply. You want something smooth and stable, ideally hardwood ply suitable for floor prep. To fix it down...

If it’s only down for a couple of years, I’d think carefully before bonding hardboard to concrete at all. Hardboard isn’t really designed to be fixed directly to concrete floors. It can absorb moisture from the slab, swell, and start to ripple — especially in a hallway where there’s foot...

That looks like a small knot hole or chip in the top veneer rather than anything structural, so no need to replace the board. The simplest fix is a wood floor repair filler or hard wax repair kit. They come in different shades and you can blend colours to get close to the surrounding grain...

I get where you’re coming from, and your thinking about click floating planks behaving differently to traditional glued herringbone is fair. The UFH guidance isn’t really about the wood warranty, it’s more about load distribution over the routed pipe channels. Overlay panels aren’t a completely...

Ah that’s frustrating, water coming up through a wood floor is never a good sign. If it were me, I’d deal with the leak first and then lift a few boards sooner rather than later. The longer water sits underneath, the worse it gets. Whether it’s DIY really depends on how it was fitted. If it’s...

I’ll be honest, the bigger concern here isn’t the adhesive, it’s the subfloor prep. Engineered boards are more forgiving than solid, but they still need a reasonably flat base. If the floor is uneven, the adhesive won’t compensate for voids underneath. That’s when you start getting hollow...

For engineered flooring, either wood or PVC beading will technically do the job — the main thing is that you maintain the correct expansion gap and don’t pin the floor down. Personally, in a living area, I’d lean towards timber beading rather than PVC. PVC can work, but once painted it doesn’t...

I agree with what someone has previously said, that’s broadly the right approach. You can’t float 20mm solid T&G, so it needs to be nailed or glued. If you’re planning to glue it down, then making both subfloors consistent is important. Plying the suspended side (6–9mm structural ply, properly...

That’s a fairly chunky transition at 12mm, so you’re right to plan it properly. Because your kitchen and living room are already level, I wouldn’t try raising the whole kitchen just to meet the hallway. That’ll create more issues than it solves. Your best bet is either: A ramped threshold...