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It all depends how the system has been designed. I'm only guessing it's something like an S-plan, which should have a bypass, which is usually adequate for frost protection, unless other requirements need to be met.

Your choices are either replace the faulty vessel, which can usually be done if you have about 18" above the boiler, but this will most likely involve removing the flue, which could damage it. Unless it's installed with silicone! If it's a vertical flue, then it can stay put. Other wise just...

It's probably just because the installer has fitted external frost protection, when actually the boiler has its own. And if it's wired correctly with its own permanent live, pump live, and switch live. Then there shouldn't be any need for anything external, unless for any other reason. Like not...

Have fun, take your time. Oh and when screwing in the new cartridge try not to crush the round of the brass cartridge if using large pliers. And take note of leaving the bottom nut loose while screwing down the cartridge. If you don't, a hydraulic 'lock' could damage the new part.

Half right :) The motor is plug and play, the hydraulic part is a cartridge that unscrews and gets replaced baxi part: 7656807 Whether you feel competent to do this is up to you. Buy the genuine baxi part, and not an eBay copy. It will come with fitting instructions.

Ok, you need a diverter repair kit, and a new motor. The motor has a brass pin that pushes down onto the steel pin in the brass head of the water diverter valve. A spring within the diverter valve then pushes the steel pin back out when the motor retracts its brass pin. What's most likely...

Once that is proved you need to check that black motor under label A in your photo. To do this turn the boiler heating temp to minimum, then unclip, pull up, the hall effect sensor the one that lights red when water is drawn. It's to the left of the pump. Just rest to the side. Then remove the...

On the left and right heating isolation valves, under the boiler, far left and far right. Remove the small pozi screws holding the black plastic levers to the spindle. Once removed, check that the flats of each spindle are inline with the flow of water, so fully open is flats running front to...

Ok, next :) On the left and right heating isolation valves, under the boiler, far left and far right. Remove the small pozi screws holding the black plastic levers to the spindle. Once removed, check that the flats of each spindle are inline with the flow of water, so fully open is flats...

With the white cover removed, (not the combustion cover) grab the flow pipe which is on the left (copper) with one hand, and then grab the return pipe on the right next to the pump with your other hand. Put the heating on and wait for the temperature to increase upto 70C. Try not to burn...

Your pipe diameter looks 'normal' on your picture :) The strainer, does it's job, and is better than nothing. You'll be amazed how many boilers have nothing! The water does pass through the gauze, but only a small portion of it. It can't be too fine or it would restrict flow too much.

Just to be clear, when you say steps down to 15mm are you referring to the pipework under the boiler (system pipework) or the extruded swept bend upto the jig?

Open a bath tap (hot) fully then turn the flow rate down at the boiler until the temp of the water is at an acceptable temperature or until you hear the speed of the boiler/fan slow down, and that's it......In simple terms :)

Predictive text :) meant to say pipe not check!

The drain valve is just to the right of the pump, with a little nozzle pointing out of it. Turning the ch valves off means you are just draining the boiler and not the system. As a side note, having 15mm check circuit on a 40kw boiler isn't the cleverest of plumbing arrangements!

This is the Baxi filling loop kit that can be fitted across the cold inlet and ch return valves. http://www.directheatingsupplies.co.uk/baxi-5119495-filling-loop-kit It just means you have to remove it to get to the ch return strainer if its been fitted to your boiler.

I think your getting a bit confused and hung up on what the manual is telling you. It is referring to the cold water inlet, which has strainer inside the iso valve (15mm cold inlet) and a filter inside the flow switch. And not related to your problem. What I'm telling you to do isnt listed in...

If you wasnt aware already you boiler will warm the heat bank first and then move over to the central heating. Enjoy your warmth :)

Looking at the manual for a WB highflow 400 rsf gc: 47-311-18 There are two manual reset buttons, one on the LH and one on RH underside of the control assembly.

And what about the other reset button?