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Would be a complete waste of your time. I agree that the report is over the top based on the cracking in the photos, but you’ll get nowhere arguing against a report pointing out ‘potential’ issues that recommends further investigation.

Have a look at BRE good building guide 16 - gives some useful rule of thumb guides for retaining wall dimensions for brickwork/clockwork walls.

What has the structural engineers report actually concluded other than a rough budget for remedial works? Have they given a diagnosis of what has caused the cracking and whether it is ongoing?

Timber lintels used to be the norm. If the timber is in good condition and there’s no obvious signs of damage to the lintel or the brickwork above then there’s no reason not to leave it be.

Heave is only an issue if there are trees close by. Whoever supplies the beam and block floor usually provides a design and drawing so should account for the relevant vehicle loading.

Have you measured how deep the concrete infill will be? If it’s very thin then it’s likely to just crack and break up again, which is probably what has happened when the previous person has done it. If you’re going to do it, I’d get a piece of guttering and place it underneath the pipes and...

No your punchbag is not going to cause the wall to fall over. All modern houses are built with a DPC like this and it is not an issue

Any other generic 10mm polythene filler strip from builders merchants will do, Aerofil is just a brand name

Why don't you get in touch with a small structural engineering company about the design work needed and see what they say about drawings? If its only a small garage i imagine they'd draw up a plan and a couple of typical sections/details for you as part of their fee, based on a setting out...

You can purchase sewer records for your area which should tell you where the public sewer is located - price varies depending on who your water authority is, but they're about £30 where i am. You could get a CCTV drainage company to come out to your property and survey the drains around your...

Either of the two is fine. Depending on the type of joist hanger you use if you go with option 2, you may need to notch the underside of the timber for it to sit in the hanger like you've shown on the first sketch

Would it not be simpler to do away with the two SHS posts and just form the whole elevation as a single opening with the door framed out as part of the glazing?

In some cases yes, in others no definitely not. Depends on how much weight the props are supporting and where abouts within the floor/how many joists you’re supporting the props off.

Why does it need a ridge beam? Are you having a dormer built? 1. You can either notch the timbers into the beam web or timber pack the beam and use joist hangers. 2. You could span 5.2m with a single joist but you'd need a pretty big joist, and any lengths of timber over 4.8m start to get much...

How big is the joist span you're actually proposing?

White asbestos wasn't banned until 99, so its possible. What is it that you think might contain asbestos?

Yes you will need to prop the brickwork above in order to remove several courses of bricks along the length of the lintel. 2 or 3 strongboy props should be fine

Extremely unlikely i'd say. And besides, building control inspections aren't only done by the council, there are also done by independent approved inspectors so you have no way of knowing who would have received/checked any drawings in the first place.

Yes looks like permanent formwork probably for concrete ground beams supported on piles. Google max frank pecafil and you’ll see what I mean

Thats a big one.. Is it a 215mm solid wall or 300mm cavity wall?