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They grey is the current concrete base /flags/proposed path ive half dug. The red is what I could flag if I smash out the base of the outhouse, if I even need to?

No The bricks were 1100 or so in total. I used half to build a wall and the rest I will either clean up and sell or use for projects around the garden/house. (BBQ or Raised bed etc) I was going to just pour a tonne of concrete for the driveway and shed path (which is half dug out now), and deck...

Hi, So after demolishing this 50s outhouse (three 5x5 ft rooms) and salvaging the bricks for a garden wall. I was planning on using the closest third of the base for a brick BBQ. and since its the spot in the garden that gets full sun all day. I was going to just build seating for the far end...

Oh. I managed to clear the crud out the pipes and they do indeed head the other way. Oh dear. That was a waste of a job. So I guess question now is what's the best way to back fill this spot and perhaps I can unblock the pipe they run to later with some sort of rod as they don't appear to be...

So we had damp issues in the kitchen corner here when moving in. The ground below damp proof was very wet and have had subsidence issues due to clay. Our main waste drain is to the left of the Image and the toilet pipe drains to it fine. There is another exit pipe in this main drain which I...

dig deeper for future posts. I prefer 9 footers 3 foot deep. 3 bags of post crete. but as explained Id dig one side out but deeper too. add a bag or two, then repeat on the other side.

I'm interested in how this goes, as I will be doing the same thing this spring. I have 2 Corner posts 7 foot tall I want to bolt a wooden frame too for a gate. There is not a change in hell I'm getting those posts out if it breaks. So any advice is appreciated. Is SDS required you think, I have...

This is music to my ears. Thank you. I do struggle to get gromits to fit with this cable though. But I suppose it is going to be static so I will do what I can with what I have at hand. So this whole have ISO sockets in view above counter for anything like dryers etc is not needed? I'm sure...

True, especially if no iso switch in view. Its just handy as there is already a single socket buried into the wall behind the dryer to make use of. And my bricks are rock solid so less drilling the better. I could always have it behind the fridge as I can reach it without pulling either...

I see.. now that looks a lot easier. I do happen to have a giant rather expensive roll of 4 or 6mm T&E that I bought for a tiny job behind oven thinking ill never get a chance to use it again. But given its a vented dryer, will the twin spur be ok to handle the load of the American fridge...

Hi, So in the image below is one side of my kitchen. It is all on one circuit currently, assuming attached in the ceiling as drawn. The blue sockets are in place, the green is proposed. I want to end up with at least 2 counter plugs and a hidden plug by the side/behind of the fridge. The...

I like to pour a bag of post crete (dry) to set the post on, then a bag or two around the base (and wet it, using this to set the post level). Then I pour a full barrow of hand mixed concrete into the hole. Mainly because I have huge wind issues and wet clay. And also because I think it will be...

The isolator switch pulled in my shower just means it runs cold. The water would still run if I left it switched to low (I'm surprised he didn't notice it was on when he finished showering. Odd)

Yeah I soon realised that especially with the thick backing. I had been working bottom up but wanted the top edge to be flush as bottom hidden. But in hindsight I'd have made it work. Bottom up from now on.

Well I butted one up to it in bnq and it was snug. But that's only because it had a tapered edge. didnt consider that the cut edge would be to thick to fit in the bead.

So first time Tiling. And apart from the bowed wall and over use of grout to level it. I'm stuck with where to put the cut end of the tile for the Beaded edge.. I assume I sand it and put cut edge at bead? But it's not stug. Is it better to leave a fap to fill? Or put the cut end by the tile? I...

Id probably take the batton option. One just off the floor, one just above DPC then skirting board, Render or tile down to the top Batton thats flush with top of skirting. But good luck. I will have a similar issue in my kitchen. I was being lazy and going to dot and dab a skirting board on...

I would think so if the gaps there, and perhaps off the floor? Not sure about that bit. Moisture would have to wick into cement then through tile. Hard to see it causing an issue. How tall is that section from floor to Dpc. Was this an outdoor wall that's now indoor? why are you choosing to tile...

Right or left?

I have some thinking to do... I may get some quotes. And pray I can afford it.