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Disconnect the photocell and see if it stops. If you have a plug-in cell which is most likely, then it is easy, but if an old cell, then you need to remove the box and disconnect at the base.

Check that the delivery driver has turned the oil back on your tank after the fill up.Turn off the power to the boiler. Remove the nut at the top centre of the red Riello case and withdraw the burner complete. Turn off the oil supply at the chrome tap between the green pipe and the copper oil...

If it all works on ON but not timed, then the valves are working. Check the timer outputs at the junction box, but I'm pretty sure the programmer is fluffed.

You are comparing fish and fowl. TRO's lasted for years, and as tou point out, are relatively inefficient. Todays boilers are a different breed, built for efficiency, and like other things, built cheaper and from poorer materials. I think that the deadlines about future fittings are already...

I would never buy a 2nd hand oil combi, even a 'respected' one. ( I earned a good living servicing and repairing oil boilers) Just to add, You would probably find the flue will need replacing, and depending where and for how long it has been standing, there may well be some pockets of solidified...

Is the pump as old as the boiler?

Not knowing what was there to start with, I assume that he has replaced a diverter valve with a y plan because that was all he had. The cylinder will still be on gravity, but you need the HW switched on to fire the boiler.

Taking off the flow pipe will not give tou any idea of the circulation rate as you will lose any syphon head from the system. If we are talking about a gravity hot water system, if you do not wish to adapt to fully pumped, than you will need to have a cylinder specially made.

Given that there are isolation valve built into the boilet for flow, return and hot water out, I'm sure there would be one for cold water inlet, but cannot see from your picture. The other valves are the square silver projections from the top. If you follow the cold water inlet pipe back through...

Diverter valve?

I can't see much oil being deposited so wonder whether there is sufficient. Is it time to check the rotor mounting for wear and slow running?

Aga's are thirsty beasts, but are consistent as long as you're not leaving lids up or ovens open for extra heat. Are you cooking more on it?

Does the burner cease firing before or after lockout? have you checked for frozen or blocked filters? Follow the logical steps in the fault flow charts

What shape is your tank? How does the level compare with last year's? Your Apollo, as will all sight indicators, will indicate the lwevel of oil in the tank. Depending on the shape of your tank, each bar will represent a different quantity of oil. Fror instance, on a round tank, the volume of...

Close the flow valve and bleed again, releasing a couple of litres of water. You may find an airlock on the return and bleeding with both valves open will not releive this.

The pins should be out for the timer to be on, but if the clock does not move then nothing will happen,

Plug the socket and make a manual connection until you can fimd a replacement. I.I.R.C. Grant did away with these units on their boilers. As long as you keep an eye on the pressure gauge, it's hardly necessary.

An LPG water water only heats up the water passing through the taps, so no radiator faciity.

If you can only get the right value as one without the stud, then just attach it to the existing capacitor with cable ties until you can get the correct one

Without a flue gas analyser, it is probably not possible to effect a lasting solution, but to see you over the holiday, look at the service instructions in the manual, and remove the access panel and baffles, clean them, and clean out the combustion chamber and brush out the flue. Reassemble and...