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I'm reasonably confident my idea works Intermediate fed from 2 existing strappers on right , standard 2-way on left No feed or additional wiring needed

hmm second thoughts rethinking it Intermediate and 2-way to control new light 2 red strappers looped into intermediate on right from existing 2 way switch , 2 yellows out Standard 2 way switch on left I think that works

Wrong..

This must be renovation of the louvre the amount of planning needed

Something like that It wouldn’t be that difficult to approximate locations and wire accordingly

Up to 50 ,hrs there’d be too much work with them

Some have used quinetic switches for the lighting rewire Less messy anyhow although i’d still prefer solid wiring to gadgetry myself

I had a load of dust inside a combi causing trigger issues managed to open and clean it A Bosch 18v sds with trigger issue they took and Fixed it , great service

I was mainly concerned about doa but sh1t happens after too Any nonsense of posting things to be tested is way too much trouble

You could string 12v wires and fit the spots where needed Doesn’t look too bad

A microwave I was looking at I noticed the warranty process is you send it back by post at your expense Would that be the norm . My thinking was I’d bring it back to shop but the customer info says not to bring it back

The problem then with the accessible joins is that you basically need a map showing their location when troubleshooting At least if you walk into ANother unknown installation and everything is terminated at points ie; socket , switch ,light , you can troubleshoot by working with the clearly...

The problem with ring final socket circuits in general is that they’ll be branched off in various ways regardless of regulation At least with a radial final circuit the fixed wiring is protected

My bad sorry I thought you said wiring to shower was bigger than internal Internal wiring is sized to load

That mostly doesn't matter Internal wiring is sized to load

Agree with all above if you're fitting inline get a good powerful fan with overrun Ducting pulled tight not just fired up like a snake

What's the heat and flow going to be like on that It's only 6.9 kw at 230v

Trump would stop the boats "in a day" He actually would too

I think most domestic are “straight to busbar now “ Better job

I said surface led with space not ceiling rose Anyway either method is acceptable and it’s a difference of opinion In this particular case its 3-plate with branches It’s simpler to troubleshoot or disconnect a fault on a branch there when it’s readily accessible rather than looking for joints