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I take it the ice plug has fully melted? Sounds like a blockage still. Maybe a flush, or use a magnet on the pipework and trace where’s it could be?

Precisely. Hence the thread, I can find plenty of how to use them links online, but only a handful of when/where to use.

Yes exactly, which I did purchase. However, I just thought about saving it for “less waste” and maybe it would come in handy for other things.

I’ve never had a calliper or tap/thread kit and wondered do I even need them? I know there’s lots of posters on here who use callipers, I’m a boiler breakdown engineer, but started life out as a plumber. I’ve never felt the need for these tools, so would I be wasting my time purchasing them...

Yes, might be worth a punt

Did they work independently with the LP241?

I don’t think it makes a difference, have you swapped them over? All demands on?

Which wire goes to RT, brown or white?

Ok, first set the existing mechanical thermostat to maximum and see if this operates it independently. If this does, then you have found your issue, I suspect the link is wrong. If this doesn’t work, then I think it’s the hot water off connection could be wrong.

Sounds like a wiring fault. Can you post a photo of the Hive wiring?

Ok, I am wrong, as I hadn’t looked at the circuit name (downstairs). However, zoom in and tell me if an mcb is supposed to stick out further than another? Another thing could be a loose connection or a failing mcb.

Looks fully on to me, but not sat correctly in the mini consumer unit - this is what I think needs investigating

No, iirc the Neomitis has 3 as common and 4 as NO (should be printed on the rear) on the Hive 1 is common and 3 is NO. So would be Black to 1 and Grey to 3. Obviously L and N would be the same.

Valve side doesn’t matter if bi-directional TRVs which most in at least the past 15 years at least are. If it’s stopping altogether then either the pressure has dropped, there’s a blockage or some other indicator.

One trick you could do is take the plastic arm off the handle and use that to pull up and release. If it’s still slow then it’s at the syphon, if it’s rapid then that’s fine and it’s likely the c link.

So the same applies to new builds? Think I’ve only ever seen 10mm pushfit in these.

Seems like the spring has gone in the syphon or the diaphragm maybe catching. Syphon appears to be a serviceable one that can be separated, maybe investigate this?

Based on this I would say perhaps a different heat loss or a weak/failing circulator

Any changes recently, eg work on the boiler or additional radiators?

Usually called C links, can get varying sizes. As above photos would be better. I’d say the spring may have gone in th syphon