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Nowt wrong with PTFE tape IMHO - I use gas tape as it's thicker and needs fewer wraps - 6 >7. Had more issues with cord than I have with tape TBF. Found that it prefers the threads being chapped up a little. No - 577 is semi permanent, it will crack and loosen with enough force applied.

The usual approach would be to align the rodding point in the direction to any section that a snake wouldn't be able to easily reach from the outlet end. In other words if there was a blockage in the basin waste run to the tee, if swept elbows are used then invariably the snake would get down...

The reason behind no flux in the fitting is - if there's flux in the fitting, when the pipe is then pushed in, it can then push flux further into the body of the fitting and into the pipe itself, that can then draw solder inside the fitting/pipe where it's not wanted. Flux only on the pipe...

Job's a guddun (y) It's the flux that was used, it's uses chemicals to clean the copper and that's the residue it can leave, nothing wrong with that and why all soldered pipe should be flushed before use. One pointer - just in case you did, don't put any flux into the fitting before...

A link to the basin type? M10 bolts into thick batons or masonry would be my min for a wall hung/semi pedestal TBH.

Yes it's something to be concerned about - shut it off and don't use it till a GSR engineer can get in to fix it, service it and test it. That's unsafe. As suggested that isn't DIY territory as it's a room sealed case.

Of course, how straightforward it will be depends on how handy a DIY'er you are ;) but it is very doable if you're handy.

If the red gate valve has been tried and it feels tight or isn't running smoothly then it's probably time to replace it as there should always be a functioning method to isolate the cistern from the cylinder so the amount of wasted water hot or cold is minimised. If the valve is dodgy then you...

You would normally have an isolation valve on the cold feed pipe in between the Cold Water Cistern (CWSC) and the hot water cylinder, usually in the same cupboard where the HW cylinder is located on the pipe and runs into the bottom of the cylinder, may have a red handle and looks similar to this.

You could always see if you can change the bath trap to an anti vac, depending on how it's configured and whether it can actually be changed

No - it's the furthermost point away from the soil pipe connection in any given waste run As suggested that would be a test and see, if the bath was to be used and the bath full of water was to be let go then is there enough of a vacuum being created in that 150mm of pipe, before the basin...

I think the SW ring seal would be a good compromise, it's semi permanent, as against fully with SW or fully flexible with the rubber one and will give a more stable seal.

The head o No, the head of a waste/drain etc is the furthest upstream point of a run.

And just ensure there isn't another stack entry on the opposite side. if the basin is @ the head of the run then ideal, fit one anyway to avoid any gurgling in the basin, if the bath is @ the head then a full bath letting go can sometimes pull on it's own trap but that would probably be a test...

BRegs state that the fall on a waste pipe should be between 18-90mm/m, this is to stop the water going 2 slow and solids dropping out of the flow or 2 fast and then the flow can get too turbulent and create the same outcome of solids dropping out. Not as much of an issue when it comes to...

You can use the rubber adapters but it really comes down to location and experience IMHO I range boss adapter as - 3rd - rubber reducers - - largest amount of flexibility for alignment but can sometimes have too much movement - fine for vertical, not the best for external horizontal...

Part of the BS standards - BS 6891:2015 I would think that installation could be made to fit the standards relatively easily by a GSR engineer, depending on what's in the floor.

All I would say is that if it was me at a clients house and they mentioned that a waste pipe had been twisting under the floor by the plasterer moving the waste, 1st of all the plasterer's ears would have been burning ;) and (edit) then I wouldn't hesitate to get the multitool out and check...

Unless it's compression and the twisting has loosened the nut or the SW wasn't glued properly and the twisting has been enough to click it loose but it stayed in the fitting. :unsure: I've also seen older push fit seals leak once the seal was twisted and broken as they tend to stick to the pipe...

I have to say if the pipe has been manipulated and moved then there's always a chance that a seal or similar has been compromised. I'd test it with copious amounts of water down the waste and see if there's any issues that arise. The alternative is to quickly open it up and take a look. As...