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Is the OSB, OSB3 and is it 22mm? I presume there is a joist running the length of the middle of the bath too? So say 400mm joist centres?

The best way is to feed them onto the length of pipe before laying, that way you don't need to cut them. If the pipe is in and live and the lagging is a retrospective job then yes. They usually come with a pre marked cut line - they just need started with a stanley then run a thumb along the...

Nope, wouldn't recommend it - as the tiler always told us, the grout needs to harden properly, so would always leave the silicone till the day after.

I'm sorry to disagree with some but moving the cylinder won't really make much of a difference. Yes, it will reduce the length of supply to and from the cylinder but if we are only talking about a extra few M and it's run in 22mm then the reduction in flow due to friction/resistance would be...

In a gravity system the head of HW pressure and in correlation, the level of flow, would be determined by the height of the Cold Water Cistern (CWSC) above the HW outlet that's being used, minus the resistance of the pipework (bends/length). The fact that the cylinder is below in the cellar...

If the reducers were tightened straight on to the top of the ISO valves and they leaked and they are they are standard ISO valves, then chances are either the fluted face/edge of the ISO has cut the seals in the reducer or the sharp edge of the valve end has pushed past them. The fluted ends...

Yep .... As the valve is tightened down it increases the resistance on the spring, that then requires a higher pressure to lift it.

All that is usually needed is a vent at the high point of the primary circuit, usually located above the flow into the coil, which you already have by the looks of it. That little loop to incorporate the gate valve shouldn't really cause any issues as the air would usually be pushed around and...

Just the actual motor or the whole power head? Hopefully the latter.

As long as you clip to the top of the joists then normal coils of SF should do. Layflat is simply easier to straighten out as it uses a different type of plastic that is softer so it's easier to manipulate.

Get the installers back in right away, sounds like there may be an issue with the feeds. Were they bathroom fitters or was it a plumber? Some of these installers amaze me! Why didn't they set it up properly, calibrate and then test it at every setting from hot to cold, it really is plumbing...

The highest setting would 0.5bar, so all the way in. Again remember where it was originally set or you'll need to go through the setup procedure again .

Defo needs a cleaner and a proper flush.

It can yes, 2 things that should avoid that. 1) only flux the pipe, not the fitting, so any excess flux is pushed out, rather than pushed (edit) in. 2) only use the right amount of solder with end feed, good rule of thumb - use the same length of solder as the diameter of the pipe, no more...

I find 3 ports (and 2 ports) rarely have an issue if the system has been kept nice and clean. If the valve spindle can be easily moved end to end by hand without feeling any resistance and there's no sign of water staining from the spindle base then the valve is probably ok.

Good stuff. Sometimes all it take is for things to stabilise, as you say - a little restriction in a pipe to move - or a sticky valve tweaked and things start to settle out.

From your OP ?? 15mm copper will carry about 4Kw @ nominal velocity @ a 50DegC ∆T (70deg flow @ 20deg air) and that is optimal. If the runs are 6m and the overall draw is ~1500w per 7 tube double vertical @1800mm + the LR rad, then they may need more than the 15mm can deliver. Unfortunately...

Does it give an actual error, what boiler is it and if there is one what error is it? The boiler will modulate, though it'll only modulate down so far before it shuts down. So boiler size dependent it would need more than one or 2 rads open for it to just tick over. You mentioned that it's 6m...

Without a doubt, if he actually is a plumber of course :ROFLMAO: If you're lucky there's already ISO valves on the sink feeds, so they're turned off and it's done. If not then it's Isolate mains - drain down - cut below the feeds to the sink - couple of stop ends/ISO's - done. As suggested...

If there's 3 rads, including the column being fed from 15mm, then that is probably your issue. Water is lazy and will always take the path of least resistance, there is a fair amount of resistance in these designer columns, especially given their increased height and design and therefore the...