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Those are defrost mode, during which it will not provide any heat. If it's going into defrost mode all the time, the outdoor unit is either clogged with dirt or it's been located incorrectly, meaning it's in an area with walls on all 4 sides and a floor/surface below, which will trap cold air.

Yes, assuming the device to be attached has the fixings offset to the left side like that.

C and D are both variations of TN. If someone really wanted an inverter or generator installation to be TT it would look like this but no real installation will be like that. Inverter / generator installs are almost always TN-S, with the N-E link internal to the generator or immediately...

BS7671 says otherwise. 110.1.2(vi)

It's this: Drill 2 holes 42mm apart in the back of the existing box, fix bracket with screws/plugs. Careful measurement required to ensure bracket is level and centered both vertically and horizontally.

Exactly. It's the standard arrangement used in domestic kitchens everywhere for ever. 'Advice' from kitchen designers and vendors should be ignored.

A 'granny lead' in the UK and most other countries refers to a cable with an AC plug on one end, a control box and a vehicle connector at the other. For the UK typically a 13A plug as shown, but can be other types such as the blue 16A or 32A versions. Other countries use plugs appropriate to...

That email is just a 'feature' so that people believe that connecting their thermostats to remote servers for spyware purposes is beneficial to them. It's totally meaningless.

Oven / cooker outlets should be flush mounted. If surface, then you are unlikely to have enough space to fit the appliance in front of it. They all need a 35mm or deeper box due to the size of wiring used with them. Why? They will be switched off only for cleaning or maintenance. Neither of...

That contains some elements of truth but like many things that can be 'read online somewhere' it's also full of fails. If a TN-C-S supply is used for some outbuilding, AND that outbuilding also has extraneous conductive parts such as a metal water pipe, then those parts require bonding to the...

There is no specific diagram for those, but it will be the same general principles, the main difference being that J and I (EV socket outlet / EV plug) don't exist as the cable is permanently attached to the controller. L/N/E/CP are just straight through from the controller to the vehicle...

Warming drawer and fan are such low power they can be disregarded. Generally such things would just plug in to whatever socket outlets you have in the kitchen. The other three are no different to a freestanding electric cooker, of the type that's been used on a 32A circuit in millions of homes...

There are 2 pins used for communications/signals. CP is used to indicate the charge current available, this can be varied at any time including while charging is taking place. The signal is a pulse-width modulated square wave. There are many pages of documentation regarding the possible...

TN-C-S is the connection at the service head. PME is what may exist within the network. Older services can still be TN-S at the service head, but that reveals nothing about what may be connected elsewhere in the network. The real question is whether the N&E are combined at some point(s)...

It's not required in a garage because those who wrote that section of BS7671 decided that the risks in a garage were lower than those outside. In some cases they could be, but certainly not in all. Garages typically have concrete floors, and if a vehicle was driven in there while it was raining...

Two choices. Cheapo affairs such as Triton for well under £100. When it breaks or inevitably is stuffed with limescale, buy a new one. Mira ATL which will be £400+ When that breaks or inevitably is stuffed with limescale, pay for repairs. Parts and repairs likely to cost more than the entire...

If people are that careless they should not be anywhere near electrical work or EICRs. When other possibilities are eliminated, all that remains is the truth.

Loose connection is most likely.

If those resistances are to be believed, then the current at 12V would only be 2 amps and 1 amp, but that's a ridiculously low 24 watts and 12 watts. Typical wiper motor would be several multiples of that. However they are probably unrelated as motors can't realistically be tested or much...

None at all. It would actually be slightly worse as you will then have an fuse in the FCU and another identical fuse in the plug. Either of which could fail if a fault occurs, adding inconvenience to whoever had to replace it. The 6A MCB does that.