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If I were to replace the UPS 25 55, would it make sense to make P2 & P3 the same model of pump?

Ok. I see what you're trying to do. How will I know when they mesh? Any cavitation is quiet enough that it's not obvious until I suddenly change speed or modes. Can I work out a ball park head to aim for from the curves? I'm confused because the P3 curves show a maximum head of 4.5m, which is...

Yup, sorry. The pump doesn't call them PP or CP. I presume C(1 - 3) are the CP modes. But there's no head adjustment. The other two modes offer head adjustment. I set it at the maximum: 7.5 m C3 mode: 43 - 44w 0.0 - 0.1m³/h Ultrasonic: 0.168329 - 0.176668 m³/h Underfloor heating mode (fully...

UPS3 25-55 180 Yes, originally the system required metering for RHI payments. It has an ultrasonic measurement system that is accurate to several decimal places. The Wilo and the ultrasonic flow meter largely, but not perfectly, agree. E.g. the ultrasonic might display 0.1273 but the Wilo...

This is just the run between the heat store and P1. Not the runs from P1 to the rads. Do I need to measure the pipe runs in the house? Do you need to know the lengths broken down by the different pipe diameters? Is it useful to measure the rads area²? An online room calculator said I needed...

I forgot the settings: P1 = CC 2 or 3 cc1 makes the boiler overheat. I've tried different modes, but makes no obvious improvement. P2 & P3 on setting 3. Again, changing them doesn't make anything better.

Yes. 70m (140) pipe run with 5.5m head. They are. But I'm not sure they're running at full spec. The bypass valve closes. After a while, the closed side cools down. Indeed. The heat store, as the primary source, has an NO valve and the LPG valve is NC. Both valves are operated when the LPG...

The Heat Store is heated by a biomass boiler. When the LPG boiler is on only P1 runs. Heat from the LPG boiler doesn't go to the heat store.

The hot water tank isn't getting hot enough either. When running on LPG I can feel the pipes are too hot to hold onto heading into the radiators and/or the hot water tank. The return from either the radiators or hot water tank feels very warm. When running from the heat store I can feel the...

Yes. I have checked that they are correctly operating when called and that the valves are working. I have replaced all the zone valve heads and one of the valves over the last 10 years. Actually the zone valve to the heat store is normally open - when the LPG is called it closes the zone...

Everything works normally with the backup LPG boiler. When the heat is supplied form the Heat Store, the supply pipes get hot, but the radiators only get a bit warm upstairs and stay cold downstairs. System has otherwise worked ok for over 10 years. I have checked all parts of the system that...

There's 7-9 people. It's a very old house up in the hills in cold Mid Wales. The biomass boiler has worked ok for the last 10 years or so - as long as we keep the thermostat set to ~16°c. However on cold days we're topping up the furnace every 1½ hours throughout the day and the Heat Store...

Just came back and re-read my post - It's so long, sorry! Here's the main issue I need to solve with some urgency: When we fired up the biomass system last autumn - it has stopped working properly. When called for, the Heat Store pumps (P2 & P3) turn on and hot water arrives in the house...

Tl;dr: Heating works with LPG boiler. Has stopped working with biomass heat store. Also, how to upgrade to smart TRVs/pumps on this system. Where to start? First an admission: I'm inclined to overcomplicate things. Hopefully the combined brains of DIYnot will help me identify the simpler...