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Thanks, good shout. It's an electrolytic one, I think, so need to get the polarity correct!

Great singers.

It'll be pain in the arse... The whole board is smothered in some kind of hard, waterproof substance. I can see in this instance why they sell the thing as one unit. Although they do get refurbed I'm not sure it's a DIY job. Thanks for all your help, Harry.

But how the heck it got into demo mode, God only knows!

Middle lad spent half an hour looking for a schematic, couldn't find one. He suggested getting in touch with Samsung online just to see how much a repair call would be. I did that. As part of the process, it said, If your washing machine does not work at all, it could be in demo mode. Press...

Taken it out of the machine now and found a bulging cap. The small one. Don't know if that could cause the module to go rogue.

Oh yeah! Cameraderie is fantastic!

Voltage between blue and white on RHS is 20V. Blue on RHS and blue on LHS is 31V. Blue on RHS and red is 0V. White and red is 138V. Blue on LHS and red is 51V. And as I have said, white on the RHS and Blue on the LHS is 237V.

Ebay has refurbed boards 80 quid plus 5 p+p and you send yours back, so there's another fiver. That's the cheapest I can find.

I've done a bit more. Here's a picture of what the two pairs of connectors circled in my photo are connected to. In each case, it's the same unit. Looking it up, it's a relay. So, having double-checked the feed on those two pairs of connectors, the left hand blue is live and the white is...

Avro got a contract from the Air Ministry in the 30s to build a load of Bristol Blenheim Mk1s at the Woodford factory round the corner from us.

Used to do a bit when Scouting. Did a Winter camp years ago, making shelters from as many natural materials as possible. The young people had groundsheets and sleeping bags. We were supposed to be building and lighting a fire using flint and steel but it was absolutely lashing down and we...

The machine does not have a latching on/off button. So I can derive a live feed from the terminals on either side of the board, but pressing the on/ off button does nothing. Edit: Sorry, that's confusing again, please read below.

Sorry, my wording misled you. By left and right, see below. I have circled the two pairs of thick conductors attached to the module. The blue on the left has continuity with the live plug pin and the white on the right has continuity with the neutral plug pin.

I now think (although I can't pull the machine out to verify) that the blue on the RHS could be the live feed to the motor. Could try and find a schematic, I suppose. But that still doesn't solve the "will replacing the power module fix the machine and if so, is it worth it for a 9 year old...

So, to summarise (see photo below), there is live (blue) coming in on the left hand side of the power module along with a red conductor, and neutral (white) coming in on the right hand side along with a blue conductor. Now, rookie me took the blue and white on the RHS to be the power in from...

There's another connector on the other side of the board with thick white and blue conductors. The white has continuity with the neutral pin on the plug. The blue does not have continuity with the live pin on the plug or the blue on the other connector in my last post. BUT The blue on the...

Got continuity through the noise filter. Also got live continuity at the this point on the power board at the number 2 connector (blue conductor). There were 2 screws missing holding the panel in, but the machine has never been apart since it left the factory. ??? Just wondering what to do...

The pond at Lyme Park. Not the one Colin Firth got wet in...

Fantastic mate, well done!