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Seems really daft not to have an adjustment but the manufacturer insisted it can't be adjusted. I'd be happy with fitting a mixer valve to the hot water output from the boiler, I just don't know which valve to order? Most seem to be electronic but I just want a mechanical set and forget type.

Well I hired an sds drill with core cutter from HSS and still I can't get through this damn wall. Am I missing something? The wall is a red brick thats really smooth to touch.

Will get another, just seems strange the original installer said it was fine, the manufacturer sent someone who said it was fine and an independant installer said it was fine. All said it cant be adjusted either.

Not sure on the make, it's in the loft so I'll have a look when I get a min. The only knob on the boiler is for the radiator temp. We've had the manufacturer out to it and also an independant plumber and both said it can't be turned down and blamed the kitchen mixer tap because of the flow...

Hi, Our combi boiler produces hot water that's almost scalding. Had someone from the manufacturers out and he's said it's fine but if we want it cooler to look at having a mixer valve fitted near the boiler to add some cold to the hot water feed. He said they're readily available and are...

Make sure your staples are not long enough to go right through the roof as already stated, and you'll have no problem. Only reason I used plasterboard for lining is that it's a workshop and according to BCO or whoever it was that advised me, too much flammable material as main structure near...

I did mine 2 years ago. Used a staple gun to pin the loft insulation up and fluffed it back up round the staples, then put up fire retardant plasterboard.

The outer wall's brick, built about 3 years ago. The cuters are a set of 4 in a case that came from Screwfix. used 2 drills, a 24v sds and a makita non sds drill.

Fair enough, I'll go hire one for the job. Out of curiousity surely if the drill keeps the cutter turning then it should cut shouldn't it? No matter how big the drill if it's turning at a constant speed and constant pressure I would have thought they would do the same job? Also is there a...

Hi, Bought a diamond core set from screwfix some time ago. Works wonders on the inside skin of the wall and broozeblock but as soon as it hits the outer brick wall cutting almost stops. Cutting at a steady speed, non hammer, letting the cutter do the work with little pressure... and...

Sorted with a big thankyou to Chesterfield Council, particularly Building Control. Called back when they said they would and very helpfull. Turns out that where I live rainwater soakaways are not allowed and haven't been since many years before my property was built due to local mining. All...

Now that's the problem. We just bought the house and the previous owners built decking over the manhole, and under the decking is a big double glazed window unit. To get at the manhole I'll have to remove the decking in quite a large area to get the window out. Just wondering if anyone local...

Hi, I've been searching and found lots of different advice which I've not really been able to get a definitive answer from. Basically I have an extension on the front of the house which is being made into a laundry room downstairs and a bathroom upstairs (bath only, no toilet or sink). At...

Hi, A while ago I had a spark run SWA to a cu in my workshop. The house has a 100A earth leakage trip everything to the outhouse is on a 32A rcd protected circuit. I recently moved an air compressor from it's old home inside the house, out to the workshop. Now when it starts up the...

hi all, my parents bought a house recently, about 3-4 times a week the breaker will blow when the outside light comes on (150 watt halogen flood light). also if a bulb goes it too trips all the lights. The breaker has printed on it: MEM M6 Type 1, 5A 240/415v ~, 51 QEB. Is this the right...

No problem, the cables run about 5 ft up the wall anyway, just thought about making it neater by hiding cables. btw, the insulation is the fiberglass type.

Would it then be better to unclip the cables from the walls an attach them on the surface of the plasterboard instead of in the wall?

Hi, Some of you may remember a few weeks ago I asked the same question and the topic turned into an argument between bickering members and was taken completely off topic. Though there were a few helpful posts my question was never really answered so I thought I'd give the forums another...

Wow, I go to work and when I come back it's like world war 3 in here LOL. To answer a few questions; The shed is more a workshop kitted out with various power tools. The spark put me a 2.5mm t&e ring in, and a 16amp supply for the table saw. Also a 1.5mm t&e lighting circuit running 3...

Does anybody please have any advice on this subject?