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I agree that construction moisture is the most likely. There is another consideration in that garden buildings get used infrequently. If allowed to get very cold, the blocks have a high thermal capacity, and will take a good while and fair bit of heat to warm up (Think storage heaters). If the...

+1 for the cheap screwfix. I've had the screwfix one https://www.screwfix.com/p/electric-concrete-mixer-230v/10107 for 7-8 years. Doesn't get used that often, so for DIY use is absolutely fine.

I agree with @tony1851 - I'd just do it. I wouldn't brick it up though. I'd lay a concrete lintel across the gap to raise the level slightly which will keep the timber clear of the ground, and also, with a bead of sealant under help protect against water ingress - won't take much fixing, and...

I hope the wall is flat! Had to do a rush tiling job at Son's house a while back. I said don't get Metros, and what did he get - Metros, and wanted brick bond! Cement was 15mm thick in the middle of the run trying to eliminate the lippage!

Probably better to assume it's detached, then there's probably no building regs (if under 30sqm internal) as there may be if you extend the house. Just need planning.

How will they know it was over 50 cu.m once it isn't there?

The house will still sell with or without a certificate. It's what indemnity policies are for. In any case, if all the rest of the windows are replaced later and have a fensa certificate, no-one will bother about this one that was done at a different time.

Filler, filler, filler!!! If it was mine, I'd be thinking about running up a new base rail on the router table and piecing in some new wood. How long does that take? Could certainly make that window last a good few years more. Ask a few local joiners. Having said that though, uPVC windows are so...

When I need to round off a window board or similar I usually grab my "hollow" wooden hand plane.....made in 1796 !!! ( before the battle of Trafalgar!!) A few passes and a bit of sandpaper and a perfect bullnose is the result!

Absolutely agree with @23vc - build your timber frame away from the wall with a maintenance gap. You'll avoid a world of pain should that retaining wall leak water through as it well might, and the timber frame will have all the nice insulation in. The gap gives you space for any overhang/gutter...

@chirpychippy you learn something every day. Thanks for the tip :)

@GusGF that sounds like a very good service to me. Give them a decent review! I was fearing the worst from your first post

That leadwork look pretty sound, but undoubtedly there is a leak. There should be a cavity tray above that window, but if that is potentially letting water through or it may not even be there, then the problem may not be that roof, but the window above. Quite possibly water is finding its way in...

Conservatories are often built on very shallow foundations, and it isn't unlikely there has been a small shift. Another problem with uPVC conservatories is that the thermal expansion of uPVC is huge and it will expand and contract significantly summer-winter. This thermal movement has a tendency...

colorfill is a filler not a glue. The clue is in the name....

I suspect the door /frame is leaking in the corner. Get the hosepipe out and test it.

I'll second (or third, or fourth) the opinion that it isn't worth worrying about. Houses always have a few little wrinkles.

@noseall I agree, but foam has it's place. It has one big advantage in my personal experience; salt contamination doesn't cross it unlike wet dabs...

Now you know that, you'll prob do what I do which is drill through and wack a screw and red plug in to keep in position...

@23vc yes in my experience foam is really only good for boards if the wall is flat