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Pictures of the hot water cylinder that has the immersion heater in it ,and the pipework around it would be useful. As well as pics of the taps of course.

If you want to isolate the hot water supply to all taps ,that can usually be done at the hot water cylinder,is that fed from a loft tank ?

I suspect a flat bladed screwdriver of the right width blade ,hammered into what's left in the tap would allow you to turn the valve off. What area of the country are you in ?

Are the 2 motorised valves the same make/ model ? If so swap them over , so the one for heating is now connected to the hot water and vice versa. Tell us the result.

If you separate the cistern from the pan by removing the bolts / nuts that hold them together ,you should be able to tilt the cistern away from the wall to clear the remains of the screws in the wall.

The OP has already tried swapping the valves,see post #6 Harry. Sounds like a wiring issue or dodgy stat.

Did the system work ok previously ,and your current problem is a recent occurrence?

A slight difference in height isn't great ,but unlikely to cause much grief

Correct.

Is the " blocker / diverter" nearer to one side / inlet port. If so ,that port has to have the flow connected to it.

The baffle is just a physical diverter to direct the incoming flow upward. If you want to establish which pipe is the flow, connect a piece of pipe between the valves and run heating, whichever pipe heats first is the flow.

Is the rad fitted upside down ? Can you see a baffle, looking through the inlet port of whichever side of the rad that should be connected to the flow ? If you close off every other radiator by it's TRV ,EXCEPT the smallest one on the system ,does problem rad heat up ?

The hot water flow isn't gonna be great if gravity fed with that type of tap

If the meter is leaking then water would be visible around it. The pipe from the meter to your stopcock is , unfortunately,your responsibility. Show us a picture of the inside of the " manhole with the meter in"

Is the domestic hot water temperature excessively hot when it trips ? Show us a picture of the immersion stat .

Your pipes are too close to the wall to allow any double panel radiator to be fitted without altering the pipework.

Your radiator may need the flow and return to be connected into specific inlet ports, or it will not heat properly.

Yes,that's what I thought. Drain down needed before removing that valve.

Which tap is leaking ? If it's the one on the cold mains end ,you don't need to drain the heating as the other valve doesn't need to be removed. However, it looks like it's the valve on the heating side that's leaking and a drain down would be sensible.

So the RCD trips as soon as the MCB for kitchen socket circuit is switched to on ,but does the MCB also trip ?