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There is no second layer, in our setup. spreader platers between joists, GifaFloor FHB18 then Carpet Underlay. I see what you mean from the Video i will ask the Knauf. I just hope that works for the thinner FHB18, and doesn’t require FHB25. our centres are 400, at worst it looked like joins...

We are installing Knauf GifaFloor FHB18 as a flooring substrate. We also have between joists spreader plate UFH. After the plumber installed the spreader plates and pipes, we found the joists the builder did were approximate 400 centres and not exact. The result, in a 4x3 bedroom, not all...

aircon is going up too. don’t ever plan to move, so getting all the home comforts in :)

i’m jealous :) i guess that’s the advantage of doing it yourself, you know you get it right.

We are having a mansard extension done. The stair/hallway area has a triangle of new brick that is exposed to the outside - see images, the old dark brick adjoins with neighbours loft. Builders plan to just render that area, leaving a large cold spot. I'm asking them to use insulated...

I have to be able to determine heat loss of the rooms, for them to be able to do that. All they can do is provide me calculations for heat output, for the various configurations. I hope to calculate the heat losses soon. Changing from 22mm chipboard to 25mm Gifafloor raised the heat output by...

Wunda got back and provided me details to show that Knauf Gifafloor FHB25 is the best of the three. I'll share this, so it's helpful to others in the future. They normalised the tog values for all 4 structural decks, based on my carpet + underly tog of 2.42: Ply (22mm) + Carpet = 4.12 Hardie +...

We are installing a Wunda spreader plate with 50mm of celotex below. I need some guidance on switching from 22mm chipboard to structural cement boards. Wunda have cautioned me about the carpet flooring that is now at 2.42 tog when combined with underlay. I'm using Tradaire King, at 0.8 tog...

Yes, that definitely seems to be what I'm reading everywhere. Is this something that is best practice, or something that building regs would insist on? If building regs insist on it, I don't get how they do this on every build they do, without problems. They have done over 200 loft conversions...

We have a cold roof mansard loft conversion and are fitting down lights. We now know warm roofs are better for down lights, but too late now. We cannot reduce head height further, so there is not room to have a service void below the insulation. I have two questions. The first relates to the...

OK that's good to know, I'll bring this up later today. Just trying to arm myself with knowledge, before I talk to them. So appreciate the advice. Someone else said to get downlight hats, not for the fire rating as lights are fire rated, but to help with the cold. Good idea? Anyone recommend...

I'm assuming you mean 90mm circles? I need to measure but the squares they have done look almost the width of the joists. So it's 300mm squares. I cannot see how they can effectively fill those in, I bet they weren't planning to. Is this just lazy or standard?

It is true, I can only find that in DIY comments, nothing official. All I could read in Part L was "should not be compromised", but I guess that is guidance for achieving the minimal U value. I have found a lot of stuff around BS 6229, that says warm roofs are recommended over cold...

I’m since reading else where that flat cold roofs with downlights are a very bad idea and potentially not passing building regs, if theY digged deep enough - due to all the swiss cheese holes in the PIR..

Yeah sometimes ignorance would be easier :) if it wasn’t mentioned to me, I’d have no idea builder was implementing what he wanted and not what was specced. Problem is I don’t have knowledge to know how much I should or shouldn’t care, if the cold roof, insulation and lights are installed...

Here are some photos. Turns out architect specced warm roof, builder ignored - see attached spec from my architect diagrams. Also included photos of what builder has done. So I now need to decide if I leave things, or push to make them implement what architect specced.

We are doing an L shaped loft conversion, we have two flat roofs. Halfway through someone advised me to make sure we have a warm roof - I had no idea there was cold or warm roofs. Builder says we have cold roof, too late to change now. Should I care? My concern is we have down lights, so lots...

It’s a good idea, but our bathroom is on the front of the house, this area has strict planning permission rules about that :( This is telebeam, looks an easy way to strengthen existing 2.5x7. https://www.telebeam.co.uk/ For now I’ll live with it, if it irks me in a few years, I’ll get a quote...

In all honesty my wife and I are devastated, but there isn't much we can do now, it's not going to help getting angry at people. The bathroom is just going in now and the space, compared to what we had before, is tiny. The door cannot open inwards, has to be open out, I have to stoop to use sink...

Because I allowed the builder to mitigate things, rather than insist the structural engineer be given time to assess and own the decision (i.e. give them a chance to correct their mistake), I'll have little grounds to stand on. I"m guessing the costs of a new floor are somewhere between 5-10K...