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Personally I'd disregard that and use your existing t and e. Those screws have a square washer to clamp the cable so it's not necessary to wrap it (and would be quite difficult to do). Just make sure the outer sheath is clamped securely at the bottom, and double the earth over so it's not the...

@endecotp Thanks for the exercise, kept us entertained at least. A few comments on your diagrams. 1) I'm not sure what you've got in the right switch box there, but whatever it is seems a bit cheeky 2) Yep 3) Yep, that would work 4) That's genuinely very clever

If you read further up, he slated another poster for giving it a go and getting it wrong, I was just offering my own unconstructive feedback.

I think he means it didn't work, just being a cryptic nob about it.

It'd be in the conditions I reckon, doesn't say anything about not making links in the switch boxes. It definitely doesn't work as drawn though

Never mind I read it wrong, I think he's got it. Edit : No, it does swap both.

It doesn't really matter as per the diagram which side the light's on. 2 cores between intermediate and light 1 switch 2, 2 cores between light 1 switch 2 and switch 1. What's more problematic, is the first switch in the line will swap states on both lights

This is a good example of why you shouldn't **** with stuff if you don't know what you're doing. Judging by the fact there's 3 wires in there, I'd say this socket was part of the ring and your socket that doesn't work was a spur from this one. By removing the socket you've split the ring into...

It might be he didn't properly take in the fact you're plastering it, it might be that maintenance free JBs can be awkward to use depending on the existing cable you've got and the reality is if someone gives it a tug the screws are a lot more likely to hold than plastic cable grips and some...

Can you take a photo of the pipework? Are there any diverter valves attached?

Might be worth taking some pictures in the boiler cupboard

Do the pipes get hot if you run the hot tap for a minute?

Looks to me like they've used the 3-core flex to the room stat so brown - live, blue - switched live, g/y - neutral. Yes, they should have been oversleeved at minimum. 7 - neutral 8 - earth 9 - live

If you've got ferrules handy, use them. If not, I wouldn't worry about it. You'd struggle to get a pin crimp in a plug top

It just protects the motor from overheat, wouldn't worry about it too much. Take it you mean the bearings on the actual biodisc? Pics would be helpful. I wouldn't run it too long with knackered bearings or youll shag your new motor

If you're planning on drilling fixings for your shower valve and stem and making off the compression joints, surely you can manage to cut a bit of pipe? Why isn't the plumber doing the second fix?

He's not fitted the shower yet, he may have to cut the pipe back a bit yet but it's no drama.

You're right john, often a complete section needs to be made up when these go. VJ couplings are often used where the pipe needs to be cut back and you've got no give, needs to be well supported either side though because the rubbers shouldn't be bearing weight of the pipework

I would just heatsink over one end, double ended crimps over each core, tape it all up and slide your sleeve over and shrink.

Ideally I would fit a motor starter box, that way you could wire the switch through the coil and it won't automatically restart when the motor cools. Alternatively I think you can wire it to an alarm input on the PCB, don't think it will stop the motor though. You could also just ignore it.