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Thinking again again, spec says I think 11l/min at 50C rise. So 13l/min at 55C when it's 0C air temp outside seems pretty good!

Now I think again after the above, if 55C at 13l/min is to be expected then it should be using I think 40kw of gas, so will gas rate again tonight to check that. If that checks out then at that increase we are getting the max out of the boiler. It should be more efficient at a lower temp...

Because it takes a certain amount of energy to raise the temperature of a body of water. If it can raise 13l/min to 55C, it should be able to heat more water to 40C for a given input temp and gas input. Guess the way to tell would be to gas rate at 40C and 55C and compare Yes I agree I would...

That's gas! Edit: Ha beat me to it

I measured the output of the filling loop which is the same connection as the dhw input and got 20l/min so I assumed that was alright. Guess I could turn dhw off and see what comes out the hot output to see what the loses through the boiler are Thanks, thats what I thought, but then why...

Ah never heard of that, thanks. Used 0.077m3 in 2mins, 12.5l/min, 40C output. That a long enough test?

Curious if anyone's got any ideas on this. I'll be speaking to installer as well, but still. Just had an Atag Economiser 35 fitted, supposed to get 16.1l/min DHW out at 35deg rise. I'll bullet point as there's a lot to take in! Cold input not an issue, 20l/min directly before boiler With output...

Thanks guys, second opinion it is then

For clarity I don't know that's the reason/idea, it's just the only thing I could think of. But now I think of it, maybe my loft builder said he reckoned it was about stopping the pillars spreading... So you're saying you think the foundation would spread the load anyway, and the beam is...

I guess the idea is to spread the load over the length of the existing foundation rather than concentrate it under the two pillars. But I'm sure you knew that! House is 50's so I think that means likely to have shallow strip foundations? Builder that did our loft thought it was overkill...

We've got plans for a rear extension, which includes a steel ring for knocking through the rear wall. I will be DIYing most of it, but most probably not this beam. Nonetheless I want to get an idea of how it needs to be installed and at what stage of construction. Was hoping we could build the...

Would need a pit first :-P

Yea I'll spread them out best I can, I wanted a high level everywhere as with a car you could be working on any part of if and it could be anywhere in the garage depending on what access you need, you're not confined to a bench! Wanted enough light for it to find it's way underneath as well...

These are what I've got https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Lighting/d220/Batten+Fittings/sd3342/LED+Batten+Fitting/p54130 6ft 65W 7800lm each, garage is 30m2 so 1040lux. From what I've read, recommended for "detailed mechanical workshops" or "normal drawing work", one step above "mechanical...

Light output is the recommended amount for detailed work over that area. So quite a lot yes but I don't think unreasonable

Yea I'm thinking neon indicator between L2 and neutral on each switch using a grid system thing, seems like the neatest solution to me

Sorry had a busy weekend. Do I need it? Well no I'm sure the earth would still turn if I didn't do it! The built in courtesy light is basically an oven lamp and doesn't get very far in a 30m2 garage. The main use case here is me backing my pride and joy into the garage. But it will be very much...

All makes sense apart from having an indicator on L2. If I have an indicator taking live from L2, then use a relay to connect L1 and L2, then surely L2 is energised and the indicator will be on regardless of the switches? FYI I'm pretty sure it's 3 minutes after the motor does anything, so 3...

Looks like I've got you thinking :D Two way switching is more important to me than knowing for certain whether the switches are active, by the sounds of it they're mutually exclusive though. An alternative I wondered about, again don't know if it's possible, but what if I fed only live from...

Another one about my potential garage wiring. My roller door has a courtesy light output, 230V 500W max. This isn't the exact model but it's very close http://www.linkcontrols.co.uk/files/LC-2308.pdf I will be having 4 x 65W LED strip lights on 2 two-way switches, fed by an FCU off the same...