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I've stopped programming my UFH (kitchen) and just leave it set to 18ºc, it comes on, as and when the thermo tells it too. I find it's more comfortable in temperature this way. The bills are not big either. I used the aquarium sensors as previously mentioned, you can get them cheap off eBay...

What's the central heating water temperature? Presume there is a blending valve on your UFH, perhaps you could turn this a 'notch' hotter.

You could screw roof battens at 90° to joists, these are around 25x50mm. If the insulation is cut tight, the battens would be a bit reassurance, but probably not necessary. I put a building paper on top of the joists/insulation stapled onto joists, then wood floorboards. What flooring are you...

You might be able to utilise STS boards or something like that. I have used these on a floor with LVT on top. They are around 10mm thick.

If your panels are corrugated PVC then you can also use a fine toothed jigsaw blade (metal cutting). Just let it cut in it's own time, don't rush it. I used two different panels from the same manufacturer strangely one of the panels was prone to chipping more than the other.

Doubt you'll get an thermal properties with polycarb or multi-wall panels, especially if the structure is open on the side. Last year in the UK we did hit 40°c (a rarity I know) and my canopy (16mm twin-wall) faired well, it does cut down the sun's intensity, but it was still hot. My centres...

I'm running my flow temp around 42°c. The radiators as only just warm, but I'm keeping it just ticking over. Have a mix of UFH and radiators. I take it you are not living in the house, if you are only 10-15°c?

Buy a second hand corded circular, something like an Evolution. Use it then flog it. That said you might be better with a track saw, you clamp the aluminium guides to the door, then whiz the saw down the guides.

Yes, although there are probably a few variants if you search long enough. Once you have the tiles, lay it out dry, at 15mm joints you might still need to trim the small ones, depends on how picky you are ;) and how well cut the other sizes are. I find Marshall's to be better tiles, more...

I used fiddies hard wax oil of oak flooring, it's a good finish, and goes a long way... as with hard wax oils they do 'yellow' slightly over the years.

Think the common pattern for packs of those sizes is called 'opus'. Whenever I've paved with this pattern, I find unless you have the joint lines quite large (which I don't like), you will need to chop the small tiles down slightly to keep things consistent spaced. I tend to whip round with...

With regard to primed pipework... I thought it was to do with expansion & leak detection. I'm sure there are loads of floors laid like yours where the pipework hasn't been plumbed in. As for leaks, you will only find out when it's pressurised. If they were careful when they laid the screed...

I used Primer G from Mapei for my liquid screed floor, I used ditra mat too, all has been well, been down a few years now.

Even though it's not connected to the boiler, has the pipework been brought up to pressure? I think normal practise is to bring it up to pressure and screed whilst pressurised (mine was).

Sorry, think I might have used Kerapoxy, had to look up the tub... not the kerakoll.

Mine's slightly gritty, not like silicon. It was also a pig to clean off. Don't think I'll be using it again.

Are there any drainage slots, anywhere in the bottom of the door fame? If so are they blocked?

No, the flow temperature is for the rads/heating, what is yours currently set at? I run mine low, around 50°C

Until you find out the issue, can't you turn the heating water flow temperature down, so it's not that hot?

Strip of PIR foam first, then plasterboard or window ledge. Are there two windows, as there is a gap on the first pic, but not the second one?