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Garden wall not likely to have much of a foundation. These cracks are merely cosmetic: I'd let well alone.

To ensure full water tightness you need a continous membrane: in your sketch water will track down the back of the dpc and under it, Ideally you need a fin drain to divert as much water as possible: you only have fill on 2 sides so this should be easy

So you want to span 7,5m with lights hung off this new structure you're adding. You'll need a beam unless you can resist the lateral pull that a catenary wire would generate. I would suggest a lightweight truss arrangement wou.d suffice or better yet a simple bowstring structure. Take a pair...

Perfectly sensible provided it's all properly waterproofed.

So my post 2 "do not do it" was heeded!! FWIW Telebeams are primarily beams which is why they are so deep.

FWIW I'd say it was all about regulations, specifically for buildover, so right place

This has been posted and answered before has it not?

I wouldn't describe that as severe distortion TBH: you'll see a lot worse. I think as others do that it's CYA time

I fear you may be right Wessex. I reckon I'm retiring at the right time. Just my own new place to sort with the client from hel!!

I wouldn't bother myself, but I would probably pop a small hole though the mortar at low level to reduce any chance of water build up

I'm an engineer by training and quallification but been doing architectural work for 20+ years. Prettty much retired now. I said simple beams: in reality any member carrying a load needs to be sized, be it joist, rafter, lintel or supporting beam, plus of course the foundations, though most...

For a simple job like this you only need a decent technician for the drawings and any simple beams. A grand plus fees would be my charge. Nothing to stop you doing your own drawings but you'll have to sort all the details out.

What happens with these joints is that the mating surfaces are supposed to be perfectly clean steel to allow maximum frictional forces to build up. The fabricator had simply slobbered red oxide over everything and the builder didn't appreciate that this would have to be carefully cleaned off to...

That won't look half as bad properly prepped and painted and viewed from normal eye level. I think you're worryng about nothing

All that's normally required with bolted joints is sensibly tight: no 6foot scaffold poles! However there are occassions where bolts do have to be tightened very precisely. This is where HSFG bolts are specified: these are very strong bolts (which usually have a reduced diameter shank) and they...

We fitted one in a rental which had persistent daamp issues and it waas a big help. You pays yer money....

My vote is not plasterboard. Our old place was buil early 70s and the garage ceiling is Asbestolux as was the enclosure round the old boiler (printed on the back) (Safely removed years ago). We only recently sold and I fully expected the surveyor to question it but to my surprise he didn't...

Each job is different but generally welding is best restricted to the shop with bolted joints used on site. Sometimes there is no realistic way to avoid on site welding but then 'elf & safety rears its head and many BCs will insist on welders who are coded for site work to be used (often hard to...

That's misleading. The fact of the matter is that the chamber is on a public sewer so it is water co responsibility and you need their permission to do anything to it. Conservatories are largely building reg exempt anyway. I'm in full agreement with Deeluks: I put "repairs" in quotes in post 4...

Right at the end of the beam you'll probably be OK but as Woody is this an SE detail??