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I have spent many a happy hour in B&Q playing hunt the straight bit over the years. Our local timber yard is much better quality, much better price (and nicer peeps) and the only real benefit of the shed is the one stop shop.

Be cheaper still from a timber yard. For a shed you could use 3x2 for the roof quite happily

OK I would only pay the invoice straight not to someone else. What is the invoice for: have they reached an agreement that yoiu are happy with? BUT I wouldn't be paying at all if there is no need for a PWN at all as there is then no requirement for this guy's services in the first place. I...

I'd guess around £4-500 but bear in mind I'm way south of the border. Ask a few: I always gave a free first visit to discuss then a fixed fee based on that discussion and what was required/how realistic the client's expectations/likelihood of having to rsubmt planning etc. I always advocate...

I've just skimmed back through the whole tale to refresh the grey cells. It seems to me that your PWS doesn't have a Scooby Doo and it may be time to raise a formal cpmplaint with the RICS.

I guess the first question is why did the original extension not go full width for a reason: drains in the way perhaps? If it was just a case of that's all we need then enlarging shouldn't be a problem. Find a decent architectural technician to do you some detail drawings and crack on.

No good arguing with the ultimate authority: get breaking.

Overkill. You don't need to sister the whole length as the bending stresses are biggest at midspan and shear loads which are biggest at the ends are generally low so the original joist needs no help especially if not rotten. I would personally just use plenty of woodglue and 70or80 screws.

You don't say what length you're looking at but broadly speaking the bigger the better. Be guided by the hire shop. I've got a Titan concrete breaker which cost about £150 and will do most breaking jobs. It is a beast and weighs about 16kg and I'd be quite happy to attack your footing with it...

I've used an old wood chisel: slow and tedious but if you only need a couple of tiles worth the effort. Also used a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder. Quicker but a lot messier.

Do you need a soap dish? Try soaking the old tiles: some adhesives will certainly soften.

I'd not worry about 16kg hanging on the wall, but stick it 700mm out and you're putting serious tension forces on the top fixings and making the bottom of the bracket try to punch into the wall. Solid brick is a much better prospect than d&d though which begs the question why the fancy...

Soldering pipes is very straightforward: plenty of stuff on utube but the essence is nice square ends, preferably using a pipe cutter which gives a wee bevel to the end, thoroughly clean with wire wool and decent flux. You want a decent blowlamp especially on the 22mm stuff. Solder ring fittings...

I think this is one case of a sensible builder and an over the top SE. I doubt I would have even queried the existing unless it's a really mahoosive tub (in which case is the steel ok?) or the joists were suffering from plumber pox. That said I fear BC are likely to side with the SE: maybe a...

I would expect to simply use 2 beams with a simple splice on the wall. Structurally they remain 2 beams. the splice just to locate them but up to your SE. I take it the wall does goes down to ground?

Most drainage plans get amended once you get into the ground: the more complicated the plan the greater the chance. KISS principle.

I suspect yes. PD assessment looks at the whole structure added to the original property so would probably take you way over 50% of the existing width when the garage is added to the new infill.

That's an important detail to omit!! What does effectively mean though? So best options: lift the beam so pipe goes under with say 50 clear or.. drop the beam so the pipe goes over again 50 clear. If neither is possible deepen the beam so your main steel has continuity and cover and maintains...

Is yours or public? If the latter you generally stop 150 clear either side woth your concrete and use a couple of PSC lintels over but to Water Co's requirements. If it's yours then just BC to satisfy so wrapping may be ok, but personally the reduction in volume of dig, muck away and concrete...

Go for it: SIP are an established name and Toolstation won't be selling rubbish. Have a look at Machinemart as a comparison. I doubt you'll need 120A TBH. I generally run at 70-80A and I'm pretty sure they're 2.5mm rods which are fine for a wide range of jobs around the house. Treat yourself...