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That looks like it could be salt glazed clay with a cement filler around the cast. Water's got in, frozen and split the clay away from the cement Could be something like this - a rest/socket bend Need to dig down a bit to see what's below it.

No reason not to if it's all accessible, always better over than under and, as suggested, if needed for any future requirements.

All I can suggest is, as someone that does this as a job, I come across more issue where items - sealing strips, tile edging strips, inside quadrants etc - have been used to bridge a gap from a roll top bath to a wall. If it is done whereby the water can't get underneath it and the bath edge...

I wouldn't - it just give the water somewhere to live if it gets in underneath and then invariably it'll mould and cause problems. Get a pack of silicone finishing tools, makes silicone work much more straightforward.

It's marked up as it comes with suitable fixings - typical M10 screw bolt fixing with a 14mm wall plug, plastic shanked washers, penny washers and nuts - that should all be fine, if it's going into a solid wall or nice fat batons, anything else then it'll need special fixings.

As long as the backplate is well fixed to whatever wall surface it'll be screwed to then it should break and loosen ok. Again though I'd still use Gas tape, 6>7 turns onto whatever male fitting is going in there and then make it just tight enough.

Nowt wrong with PTFE tape IMHO - I use gas tape as it's thicker and needs fewer wraps - 6 >7. Had more issues with cord than I have with tape TBF. Found that it prefers the threads being chapped up a little. No - 577 is semi permanent, it will crack and loosen with enough force applied.

The usual approach would be to align the rodding point in the direction to any section that a snake wouldn't be able to easily reach from the outlet end. In other words if there was a blockage in the basin waste run to the tee, if swept elbows are used then invariably the snake would get down...

The reason behind no flux in the fitting is - if there's flux in the fitting, when the pipe is then pushed in, it can then push flux further into the body of the fitting and into the pipe itself, that can then draw solder inside the fitting/pipe where it's not wanted. Flux only on the pipe...

Job's a guddun (y) It's the flux that was used, it's uses chemicals to clean the copper and that's the residue it can leave, nothing wrong with that and why all soldered pipe should be flushed before use. One pointer - just in case you did, don't put any flux into the fitting before...

A link to the basin type? M10 bolts into thick batons or masonry would be my min for a wall hung/semi pedestal TBH.

Yes it's something to be concerned about - shut it off and don't use it till a GSR engineer can get in to fix it, service it and test it. That's unsafe. As suggested that isn't DIY territory as it's a room sealed case.

Of course, how straightforward it will be depends on how handy a DIY'er you are ;) but it is very doable if you're handy.

If the red gate valve has been tried and it feels tight or isn't running smoothly then it's probably time to replace it as there should always be a functioning method to isolate the cistern from the cylinder so the amount of wasted water hot or cold is minimised. If the valve is dodgy then you...

You would normally have an isolation valve on the cold feed pipe in between the Cold Water Cistern (CWSC) and the hot water cylinder, usually in the same cupboard where the HW cylinder is located on the pipe and runs into the bottom of the cylinder, may have a red handle and looks similar to this.

You could always see if you can change the bath trap to an anti vac, depending on how it's configured and whether it can actually be changed

No - it's the furthermost point away from the soil pipe connection in any given waste run As suggested that would be a test and see, if the bath was to be used and the bath full of water was to be let go then is there enough of a vacuum being created in that 150mm of pipe, before the basin...

I think the SW ring seal would be a good compromise, it's semi permanent, as against fully with SW or fully flexible with the rubber one and will give a more stable seal.

The head o No, the head of a waste/drain etc is the furthest upstream point of a run.

And just ensure there isn't another stack entry on the opposite side. if the basin is @ the head of the run then ideal, fit one anyway to avoid any gurgling in the basin, if the bath is @ the head then a full bath letting go can sometimes pull on it's own trap but that would probably be a test...