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I find 3 ports (and 2 ports) rarely have an issue if the system has been kept nice and clean. If the valve spindle can be easily moved end to end by hand without feeling any resistance and there's no sign of water staining from the spindle base then the valve is probably ok.

Good stuff. Sometimes all it take is for things to stabilise, as you say - a little restriction in a pipe to move - or a sticky valve tweaked and things start to settle out.

From your OP ?? 15mm copper will carry about 4Kw @ nominal velocity @ a 50DegC ∆T (70deg flow @ 20deg air) and that is optimal. If the runs are 6m and the overall draw is ~1500w per 7 tube double vertical @1800mm + the LR rad, then they may need more than the 15mm can deliver. Unfortunately...

Does it give an actual error, what boiler is it and if there is one what error is it? The boiler will modulate, though it'll only modulate down so far before it shuts down. So boiler size dependent it would need more than one or 2 rads open for it to just tick over. You mentioned that it's 6m...

Without a doubt, if he actually is a plumber of course :ROFLMAO: If you're lucky there's already ISO valves on the sink feeds, so they're turned off and it's done. If not then it's Isolate mains - drain down - cut below the feeds to the sink - couple of stop ends/ISO's - done. As suggested...

If there's 3 rads, including the column being fed from 15mm, then that is probably your issue. Water is lazy and will always take the path of least resistance, there is a fair amount of resistance in these designer columns, especially given their increased height and design and therefore the...

3 port valve heads are notorious for going faulty, it's the way they work. They all eventually burn out over time. Just match up the valve head types and then change the head. In the summer it might be an ideal to change the system over to an S plan, as long as there is enough space in and...

It's to divert the flow upwards and stops the water just running along the bottom of the rad and then up. The rad will not heat up properly if it's reversed, the flow needs to be on the baffle side of the rad. Is the system microbore? 10mm pipe?

looks like an older auto bypass. Wind it to it's highest setting, just remember where it was set. Though I would say that the bypass leg would also need to be flushed too.

Or if you have a handy angle grinder, much quicker.

It should be - the difference is between the design of a drop tight valve as against a standard Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV). As well as when water is moving, when the water isn't moving then a drop tight valve should lock shut and stop any creep by the way the spring and diaphragm is...

BG tend to do a powerflush as a matter of course - Don't get me wrong a properly performed powerflush is excellent and it certainly works well and should leave the system nice and clean, it just isn't needed in a lot of cases IMHO and usually adds a significant costs too and the better quality...

Oh dear :eek: :ROFLMAO:, apols, really didn't mean to diss any of his pals but the fact that you have 2 working bathrooms and a cloakroom and there if there is any possibility that more than one hot outlet will need to be run at the same time, say shower and bath, 2 showers, shower/bath and...

yes, a good cleaner that can happily sit in the system, X400/F3/MC3 etc can be added but the system does need to be flushed and filled and flushed and filled a few time to clear everything out once it's been in there a while. As long as you can mains flush the system clean through flow and...

Nothing to say that the current system you have couldn't go to sealed either, would need to see what boiler you currently have etc and just exactly how you system is fairing at the moment. As @DP suggests, if you give the general area where in Glasgow you are, I'm sure that there will be more...

Most definitely. Anything with narrow waterways and flexi's will slow down flow, more so with a gravity hot feed and unbalanced supplies

+1 - not required.

Had trouble with backing up before now with the low head volume in a shower, especially the Wirquin ones, more so with long hair.

I'd just add an anti vac basin trap onto that, just to stop any gurgling @ the basin trap if either the basin empties or if a full bath is let go.

Oh dear - You are talking to the wrong folks if all they are saying is to throw a combi at it. Especially with more than one bathroom. (edit) Unfortunately, your husband is listening the wrong advice. What you're asking for is not really a difficult job, no. More money to them in a swap though...