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Thanks for all the help. I got the plumbers out who fit the boiler and they’d installed it incorrectly, the flow and return pipes were the wrong way round. So touch wood it’s running as expected now. Does disconnecting the SL2 have any effect on the frost/pipe stats?

Thanks. Just to satisfy my curiosity. How come we have CE in both zones and HW if a valve isn’t open? Or is the issue that it’s not open enough? My understanding is that the nest triggers the motorised actuators which open the valves and then send signal down SL1. Is this a different valve you...

Hey Shambolic, my knowledge is very limited so I have no idea what that means. We have HW and CH. Am I correct in saying this issue is unlikely due to the nest installation and was probably pre existing on boiler installation?

So I made ‘some’ progress. Disconnected the SL2 and the weather comp and turned It off at mains for 15mins. Restarted it and it came on for a short while and then turned off and went to 00. The issue I have now is the boiler is still faulting with FA intermittently, it will fault and then come...

Sorry I mean, I’ll remove SL2 in the boiler but in the tank junction box can I just leave the cyclinder off wired? That’s what thermostat HW OFF went into before. I assume it makes no difference if SL2 is disconnected at the boiler?

Thanks shambolic, that’s what I thought, thanks for confirming. Is there any issues with me leaving the cyclinder off wired into the HW OFF slot or can I just leave that?

Thanks shambolic. So the connector which had two wires going into it on the tank (I’m assuming this is cyclinder off and hw off) now only has one as the nest isn’t hooked up to send the hw off. Am I correct in saying I have two options here, get the hw off connected or remove the SL2 and weather...

I spoke to an Ideal Technical and she suggested it’s correct, the boiler uses the HWOFF signal to differentiate for the weather comp I’m told.

Thanks for the reply. Yeah that’s the S-plan with no weather compensator. https://idealboilers.com/uploads/documents/spec-sheet-weather-compensation-kit.pdf Shows SL2 wired and I’ve looked inside the boiler and it has SL2 and the comp wired as in the diagram.

Just to add “So in the main all orange wires go together from all three valves so if any valve powered open the boiler and pump runs, when a valve opens the bleed leave goes slack, and often there is a indicator as well. So all valves closed and boiler should be off.” All oranges are together...

It’s an Ideal Logic Heat 15 gas boiler connected to a 2 zone S-plan wired tank. It’s a new build so was installed by builders and then we had a nest pro install the nest. The nest is turning on/off the valves as I can hear them. The old danfoss thermostats that were connected had the HW OFF...

I checked that, the voltage on the orange accurators wires when everything off was dead. If it was stuck I’d expect some voltage? I’m looking at the diagrams for wiring for the boiler and then with the weather comp for S plan. It looks like if it has weather comp then it has HW OFF hooked up on...

I turned it off at the mains and then back on and it sat on 00 for a while and then turned on before faulting with FA (hot water and ch off on nest). So at the moment we can get CH and HW and I can hear the valves turn on but the boiler never goes into standby when there is no demand.

Water valve is on left behind and 2 zones at front. Hope that helps.

So I’m a bit lost, the weather compensator didn’t seem to make any difference, the boiler is still intermittently faulting FA which means reverse flow but the hot water is working (it’s heating the tank).

The wiring book for the tank says S-plan but I’m told by Ideal boilers that the boiler is not getting a 240 volt from cyclinder satisfied or domestic hot water off. This is for the weather compensator so removing it may fix the issue?

Hey, reaching out on here as I’m a bit lost in regard to diagnosing the issues I’m seeing and I’m no electrician. We had nest installed, 2 thermostats of which one does heat and one does heat/water. The heatlinks are wired up to the tank junction box (new build so fairly new system) and we...