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Mixture of render and plaster but all could be replaced with board and then skimmed.

That is the actual wall which has been skimmed down to the floor. For a neat finish you would be best hacking it off and plasterboarding the wall and you can then fit skirting as usual and don't forget to mark where the uprights are for your skirting boards to fix to.

This one is similar but worth sending them an image and asking the firm if they can identify yours. https://lsbuildingplastics.co.uk/gutter-brackets-self-support-system.html

Composite doors have their advantages but £2800 is top end money. Have a look at this site, click on EXTERNAL and choose any of the tabs to see the range. You will need to find a fitter but you would save a huge lump of the agents estimate. https://www.directdoors.com/

They will be weep vents from the internal cavity tray or lead liner so don't fill them in with mortar.

If the loop is open the pressure will rise so if the needle is static then it will be off. You would also hear water moving if it were open so just check to satisfy yourself. It would be worth getting another handle for it or making some kind of reference mark with a marker pen on the valve head...

With a door that narrow it is fine with 2 ledges although adding another to the centre would strengthen it and also give you a solid point for a lock or hasp and staple position.

Bemused by the red van that has something in common with barbecues and funerals,... sounds like an Aussie wake.

This resin will do a good job of fixing it and squirt plenty in but don't fill it as you can then point it up once it has set with a bit of mortar to match closer to the brickwork.... https://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-r-kem-ii-styrene-free-polyester-resin-300ml/32863

May be quicker for you to nip to Screwfix.... https://www.screwfix.com/search?search=hep2o+tool

The seat may be a friction push in rubber plug type fitting so you could try gently prising it upwards but stop if it looks like it will break and failing that you will need to try get your hand in to reach the nuts or uncouple the toilet from the pipework and the wall etc and get underneath it...

They are not buttons, they are just the pins of the hinge part so you will get no joy with them. There must be fixings underneath the pan, can you reach around under the toilet or post an image of the side of the loo ?

For 3 x 2 timbers you are looking at a support somewhere between every 1.23m to 1.14m apart dependant on spacing and load so if you went with a fixed support every 900mm you would be well within the tolerances.

Yes that would be strong enough. Make sure you have supports in the centre areas of the ceiling depending on the span you are covering.

Yes because it cannot physically drop downwards as it is in the web of the RSJ, nor can it pull out as the studwork frame of the ceiling fills from wall to wall. You could drill, countersink and screw through the RSJ below each upright if you wish but really not needed.

Youtube is the answer as there are plenty of videos on how to do it. This shows an edge detail situation but there are lots more.

Sounds like they are having a laugh to me. I am assuming you have a stud wall as you mentioned cutting a joist, but possibly mean a timber stud, but it is not that big a job and could easily be formed in a few hours and tiling it would not add that long to the timeframe either. I would be asking...

Maybe you have one of the single speed models.....this is a post on a forum i found : https://forums.digitalspy.com/discussion/2060595/which-henry-hoover

You don't drill into the RSJ, you wedge chocks into the web stood upright and then fix to those. Bit like this post here.... https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/noggings-in-rsj.286252/

The usual way to do it would be to chock 3 x 2 or 4 x 2 timbers vertically into the web of the RSJ so they are a tight fit and sit flush with the face of the steel. That way you don't need to hang timbers from the ceiling as your 3 x 2 ceiling frame can fix to the chocks in the RSJ.