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There is a good selection of titles on eBay which are great options pricewise and, although not up to date with current Regs, specs or Standards, will give you a very good insight into how to build most things. Most major construction tasks like joinery, brickwork, plumbing, plastering etc...

Depends on what size tiles, ceramic or porcelain, tile pattern etc, etc....It does sound like a lot of money to me and you would be best getting at least another two quotes so you can compare. His 8 days quote is £562.50 per day or approx £70 per hour, nice work if you can get it but i wouldn't...

Andrea... more like "oh dear"

Here is the method according to Topps Tiles.... other board products may differ slightly but all pretty much similar. https://www.toppstiles.co.uk/knowledge-base/how-to-install-backer-boards

Oh dear, should be half that cost for that standard as it looks very amateurish / DIY level. Was a scaffold used or was it all ladderwork ?

How much is he trying to steal from you for that mess if you don't mind saying ?

I wouldn't say it is poor, more like terrible.... who did it, WTF Roofing ?? I would find somebody else unless he can produce the standard you want at his next attempt.

Says it all really....

You can buy a metal corrugated ducting as below but in your situation I would say it is fine with what you have given the distance between the hob and the vent. https://www.dustspares.co.uk/semi-rigid-uninsulated-flexible-ducting-3-metre-length.html#prod_id=5746

Start at about 6 or 7 and give it a go driving a screw on a scrap piece of timber and if it still overdrives then adjust it down to suit. You are aiming for the drill to stop itself from overdriving and the clutch will engage accordingley ( you will hear the noise ). It is easy to alter it and...

If you only have an impact driver then put it on the lowest speed and take it slow and steady, you will soon pick it up.

There is a fine line between just enough and too much and it is just down to practice. If you set your clutch on a cordless drill you can get it right.

The walls were possibly built using taper edge boards and with the cracks being fairly uniform in nature it is consistent with a taped and jointed finish where a folded paper tape is run into the corners and filled over. They could be raked out and refilled using a scrim tape to strengthen the...

Wouldn't hurt to go a little deeper, just so the countersink is snug in the timber as the more surface area in contact with the wood, the firmer the grip.

I believe that anything over 300mm requires planning but it may vary from Council to Council so best bet would be to ask your Local Authority or see if their Planning Portal web site states what the rules are. Some things are now classed as Permitted Development but your Council are the ones to ask.

I would say Bold roll too.

Yes it is.... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kitemark There are plenty of similar looking taps about, either new or original ones online or search the reclamation yards.

They look like shelf supports.

To get a level or flat bed over a wide area i have always use rails which involves setting in either a length of metal conduit or even a scaff tube a certain distance apart and level them up (if level is what you need or create the fall you want) and then pull a straight edge flat over them to...

As there is nothing above it then it is unlikely to be doing much structural work so i would say you are safe to remove it. Do you know it is brick as it may well be a timber wall ?