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Ebay has refurbed boards 80 quid plus 5 p+p and you send yours back, so there's another fiver. That's the cheapest I can find.

I've done a bit more. Here's a picture of what the two pairs of connectors circled in my photo are connected to. In each case, it's the same unit. Looking it up, it's a relay. So, having double-checked the feed on those two pairs of connectors, the left hand blue is live and the white is...

Avro got a contract from the Air Ministry in the 30s to build a load of Bristol Blenheim Mk1s at the Woodford factory round the corner from us.

Used to do a bit when Scouting. Did a Winter camp years ago, making shelters from as many natural materials as possible. The young people had groundsheets and sleeping bags. We were supposed to be building and lighting a fire using flint and steel but it was absolutely lashing down and we...

The machine does not have a latching on/off button. So I can derive a live feed from the terminals on either side of the board, but pressing the on/ off button does nothing. Edit: Sorry, that's confusing again, please read below.

Sorry, my wording misled you. By left and right, see below. I have circled the two pairs of thick conductors attached to the module. The blue on the left has continuity with the live plug pin and the white on the right has continuity with the neutral plug pin.

I now think (although I can't pull the machine out to verify) that the blue on the RHS could be the live feed to the motor. Could try and find a schematic, I suppose. But that still doesn't solve the "will replacing the power module fix the machine and if so, is it worth it for a 9 year old...

So, to summarise (see photo below), there is live (blue) coming in on the left hand side of the power module along with a red conductor, and neutral (white) coming in on the right hand side along with a blue conductor. Now, rookie me took the blue and white on the RHS to be the power in from...

There's another connector on the other side of the board with thick white and blue conductors. The white has continuity with the neutral pin on the plug. The blue does not have continuity with the live pin on the plug or the blue on the other connector in my last post. BUT The blue on the...

Got continuity through the noise filter. Also got live continuity at the this point on the power board at the number 2 connector (blue conductor). There were 2 screws missing holding the panel in, but the machine has never been apart since it left the factory. ??? Just wondering what to do...

The pond at Lyme Park. Not the one Colin Firth got wet in...

Fantastic mate, well done!

Went for a stroll in Higher Poynton. Had some lunch in the Boar's Head

Yes, she described it as an MCB, but thinking about it, that was unlikely. I think it was more than probably over-current or short circuit as the 3A fuse went simultaneously.

So, a quick continuity test between live in, live out and neutral in, neutral out then.

I'm here at the moment and I've just taken a picture.

Had a lovely meal at our local Chinese with a hint of 5 spice last week and it inspired me to make a couple of home made versions. The first one used up a pile of cauliflower greens that I shredded finely and the second used up a load of sprouts and a bit of broc we hadn't cooked from Christmas...

Just rediscovered Scott's Porage Oats. Used to eat them in the 80s but moved to own brands. Seen some in Farm Foods and thought I'd try then again. Very damn good. Will be buying them again.

My electronics from college is rusty. From memory the mains filter on that machine is a "noise" filter. If they fail, does that prevent "pass-through"? If so, a quick check for voltage on the outgoing terms should show one way or the other.

Thanks, Harry. Looking at it like that, I will dismantle it, remove the suspected part and examine it to see if it shows signs of distress. The only thing stopping me is that if I buy the replacement part, replace it and it still doesn't work, then, I'll be dang annoyed. OTOH, I can't really...