Search results

I have the home-mini, but it's not realtime in that the data is collected from the meter and uploaded to octopus and then made available to the API and not available for 1-2 minutes depending on api rate limits (100 requests per hour) I want energy import and export in realtime. The shelly is...

I'm not against getting an electrician involved, but I am not able to find one willing to get involved. I'll ring around tomorrow. I just can't afford the time or expense for a major rewire, especially this time of year. I'm not keen on drilling below the meter box because that's obviously...

Yes, might turn out to be an expensive or useless freebie. I did look for battery powered clamps but only found some sketchy information about a chameleon CT-clamp Got a link for this Owl device? I'm surprised there aren't more wireless/battery CT-clamps..

I did a few posts back... the box with 4 fused circuits. Upstairs lights and ring, downstairs lights and ring.

No, it's all in the shared wall that the meterbox and fusebox are on either side of. The house is 30-35 years old and the electrics are un-altered and never been a problem. I have asked for quotes from local electricians for at least a CU update, but never get replies, maybe they have bad...

What are the possible options here to fit a CT-clamp? I thought about finding where the cabling enters the house from the fusebox, that would be accessible under the upstairs floorboards, but that will probably be twin and earth or 3 core. I don't think you can use a CT-clamp around multiple...

The fusebox is up high on the opposite side of the wall from the meter cabinet, the incoming tails presumably go in to there from the rear of the box. Would consider a mini CU, but I expect an electrician would need to do EICR and want to replace and rewire the lot.

So would an electrician look to fit a consumer unit rather than trying put any clamps in this cabinet? I think that only an electrician can make changes to the fusebox right? Just for my understanding then, which of those cables at the bottom is incoming and which will be going to the fusebox?

Got a free Shelly Pro 3EM but have no exposed wiring indoors, the outdoor meter cabinet has the incoming "tails" but has no usable power outlet. Am I allowed to drill though the back of the meter cabinet so that I can mount and power the shelly indoors and feed the CT clamp in from the cabinet...

Thanks for sharing the details of you build. Progress has been slow because of weather, the notched posts got rained on and was a few days before it was dry enough to use the cut end treatment, nasty stuff... I had a plan to do some fancy rail ends but my jigsaw wasn't up to cutting curves...

I'm in the middle of building a pergola and noticed most of the regularised C24 Pressure Treated timber was bent or twisted. I assume this is from incorrect storage. The bloke at the timber yard let me cherry pick some replacements but with rain and hot sun it is probably going to bend up again...

It's ok, I can reach it. it's around in the corner and I only have access from the front, so thought it would be more difficult to reach the back side to undo and fit a replacement

I can only find the bath waste and overflow with integrated plug hole (the in the bath part) so will have to replace it all? Are these a standard size? and it the trap fitting a standard size? I hope the overflow part is detachable, because that might be impossible to reach the fitting. We...

Bath was fitted about 20 years ago and there was a leak about 10 years ago where the water was coming through the downstairs ceiling. The wife called an emergency plumber on the home insurance who came out and said oh, the bath waste pipe is leaking so he tightened it up and that was "fixed"...

The place I got the spur recommended coach screws M10x180mm 3x @£2each. Pilot hole of 8mm The post is 100x100 and so is the spur. I can get a BZP M10x220 coach bolt for £1.82 each. It's a gate post so 2cm sticking out either is going to catch somebody. I think I'm going to go for the coach...

Thanks, I actually got to the same conclusion and will be buying a concrete spur later. What are the best fixing for the spur to the post? screws or bolts all the way through? Was thinking putting a bolt through the post to keep the cracks closed and stop the twist.

Thanks all, I didn't realise thermostat would have a long probe attached like that. I will see it I can get it out and find suitable replacement. I assume the probe is inside an air/water tight sleeve?

I don't know if the "solid tail" would get in the way, I think it might which is why I initially thought the terminal might spin around, but it is solid. I think the thermostat is fixed in place somehow so not sure it will easily move out of the way.

Why would the plumber have left this Neutral terminal facing the wrong way? surely it would not have been wired with the terminal screw facing the thermostat and thus inaccessible? This thing is difficult to access as it is on top of the cylinder in a kitchen cupboard, but was going to try...

not much use cutting the post to size if the 3 mortices are not standard distance apart. The existing fence has 3 rails and the mortice slots are 200mm, 790mm and 1380mm when measured from the top. I'm looking online and none of the suppliers give mortice measurements so that's why I'm asking...