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SDS drill is best. Or a floor scabbler

Lay 6mm flooring grade plywood down

Winter to spring.

Cut the hole out. Fill in with a46 rapid. Screed floor with ardex na at 3-5mm Dpm 1c P4 primer Ardex CL or NA on top Done it hundreds of times over the last 30 years.

How thick is the asphalt ? It’s hard to tell in the picture. If you scratch it it should show black. It should be 15-20mm thick. If it’s old mastic adhesive it would be 2-3mm thickness. If all solid I’d be going Ardex na DPM1c Ardex na. Or dig up and a new sand and cement screed with...

Pva glue

He said that’s most likely from the information. As I told him the screed should be dry enough for LVT with the timing.

My mate said looking at all the pictures he thinks the pipe is leaking in that corner. And the boiler won’t lose pressure due to the ufh manifold.

The ufh looks good. Going to speak to my ufh specialist tomorrow. I’ll show him the pics.

Any pics of the UFH in that corner

I wouldn’t think it’s the visqueen sheet under the screed letting that much damp through if it had a small hole.

I mean the corner of were the plinth goes.

We pet hate is when lads don’t screed into the corner of the kitchen. I go mad at my lads if they don’t do it. Great the way you made that gif

The sub floor should be dry then. Weird that. You haven’t had a leak from above I take it. Any old water pipes close by or under the screed ? Other than the UFH.

Order should of been Screed goes down Leave 30 days Switch on UFH low temp to force dry the screed for 30 days Moisture test If dry smoothing compound , 2 days later lay LVT If still got damp in it switch heating back on

What date did the screed get done. What date did the self leveller ( smoothing compound ) get done What date did the LVT get fitted ?

Youre thinking mitre fix

No. Contact spray adhesive

That sika should stick it. Or buy a tin of contact spray

It would do if any moisture got into it.