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@Admin, I keep getting errors when trying to upload images or paste them in. Tried from my phone and laptop. Please advise.

The site isn’t letting me upload images for some reason. Will try again shortly.

This bedroom door frame was split and damaged. I’ve cut that section out and wondering how I can join a new section to it. I am doing new architraves once finished. I’d appreciate any advice you can provide and want to avoid replacing the whole frame.

No. Didn’t cross my mind at the time. You have also commended it for wood which is its core use case I guess. The new Brushless model is supposed to be more powerful. I am inclined to go for it.

Please let me know if anyone else has experience of this nailer. It was strongly recommended by a local builder. He also said that the makita nailer was awful.

With door frames, do people just cut the mitres at 45 degrees and squeeze the architrave legs in/out slightly if it is out of square? Or do you have to cut this precisely to what you have in place? I would have thought most frames are pretty square if the door is opening/closing within it...

Does it punch into plaster or bounce back? I've never used nail guns but seen lots of videos where it is used to hold skirting until the glue sets (or without glue). This would suggest that they dig into the plaster?

Would it be advisable to pin the strips to the frame first?

I was looking at these: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Pine-Stripwood-Moulding---10-x-25-x-2400mm/p/121256 I think B&Q are cheaper though. I will put my architrave on the current wall and gauge the thickness of architrave I will need. Will 11mm be too narrow to nail? I am planning to...

Do you have the brushless version of 18 gauge? When tacking skirting boards into plaster, I assume they are okay for that?

I have a skirting and architrave project coming up and wanted to invest in a nailer. I am in the Makita ecosystem for the rest of my tools. All are brushed versions. I have seen good things about this online...

Sorry @Wayners, what is the yes in response to? I packed a few questions into my earlier post.

Another thought on this. Can I screw a block of wood into the floor boards (carpet is up) to pull the skirting in at the various points? Or will it bounce back over time? Trying to avoid the tediousness of drilling, countersinking, rawl-plugging, screwing and then filling.

Thanks guys. Based ion the above, the fillet pieces to raise the architraves is probably the easiest option. Please let me know if you disagree. Do I have to predrill and nail these? Got quite a few to do. Perhaps I should hire a nail gun.

Looking at that image, I think I have 125mm once the setback is factored in. The door frame is 30mm. The torus architraves are 690mm wide. I guess I need to rip off as much as is required to butt them side by side.

Not really. It will introduce far too much work. Please let me know if there are any alternatives.

My plaster is slightly raised from the door frame and I’ve seen videos where you can fit a wood trim and then the architrave on that. These trims are around £7 each and I will need 4 for each door. I have five doors to do! Is that the way to go or is there another option? Also, I don’t have a...

I’ve ripped off all my old architraves and plan to replace them with torus architrave. This bedroom door is next to a cupboard and I’m wondering how I deal with this as there is no enough space for two torus architrave uprights. Measurements can be seen in the image. I would appreciate your...

I gave in and purchased a new Makita MR007GZ. Problem: It's now way too nice to use in all the muck! Dilemma

Bit of an update on this. I removed the beading as suggested above and removed glass pane. No casualties. I then cut off the frame to leave a bit of a section that I can pin my new architrave to. Against some of the advice here, I used the recip saw for this bit. It will be hidden behind the...