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Thanks for the responses guys. Helpful as always. As @flameport has suggested, it needs to be connected into the circuit board.

The battery is in its slot (for both fittings) but may be there is a plastic film or something near the ends…

I would expect that to light up straight away but that’s not the case. It hasn’t come on even after 3 days. Am I doing something wrong?

I have one of these and supplied it with a permanent live and neutral. I have removed the small wire between L and SL. Nothing lights up - not even the led indicator. I have waited 3 days, thinking it may be down to charging, still no led indicator. When cut the power, the light doesn't...

Ah I get it. Thanks for that @pete01

Sorry @pete01, I don't follow. With the existing light switch and also with the new socket directly to the left of the current socket, isn't the existing socket (in its covered state) in a safe zone? No one should be drilling here as it's in line with both the new socket (horizontally) and the...

Aren't they in zone for the new socket that I am fitting to the left of this, behind the cabinet. Also, it's directly below the light switch so no one should be drilling here anyhow?

Thanks. Did consider that but the cables are coming up from a concrete floor.

I'd be grateful if someone can suggest a method that allows me to cover up the existing socket as part of this ring extension please. I can place the wagos inside a wago box if that is recommended.

ah, someone else suggested that they placed the socket on top of the slats and used longer screws to reach the existing back box. They then placed some plastic trunking plastic strip above and below the inners of the socket to protect someone from touching it. Is that what you were thinking of?

I plan to have the soffit boards running horizontally and can fix them to 9mm batons, spaced ever 400. Same as the studs for the wall? I am unclear on the role of silicon here. Can you please clarify. I assumed that the soffit boards will be screwed into the aforementioned battens (on the upper...

Your approach is very clear to me now. When you say no need to do any different with my method. Is that with the use of the galvanised extender boxes?

Thanks for your responses @SUNRAY. I can follow what you did. In my situation, I could use your method or alternatively, the galvanised extension boxes as I think it will give me the correct depth. The reason, I am interested in the cut PB box approach is that, I don't have to be too precise...

And you need to position the PB box so that the lugs can tighten on to a slat? And therefore need to cut the foam from behind the slats where the lugs will tighten on to? Hope you follow my poor explanation here.

Ah got it! If the panels are 21mm, would t I end up cutting some of the lug on the PB box too? In my situation, do you think the galvanised extension boxes would work better?

How did you deal with that socket? Looks great

I think this can work. The slatted panels are 21mm thick. We then have some adhesive gap. This should allow me to fit the new sockets flush in the way I want. I will paint the boxes black. When I cut out the slatted panels for these extension boxes, how much slack do I have for when the socket...

I think the plasterboard boxes come in 35mm depth? The slatted boards are 21mm thick.

I own a MFT and will check resistance and continuity before I make the change. I will be going left out of the existing socket to a new socket behind the cabinet. I will be going straight up from here to put another socket behind the TV. All cables are in safe zones. I will extend the ring -...

I’ve got two sides of my shed that won’t be visible. I’m wondering what would be an appropriate finish for these sides. The shed will be constructed with stud walls and 9mm osb on top. This will then be wrapped with a breathable membrane. Could I use hollow soffit for this? If yes, should I...