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One more - before you head for your well earned nap :) - can I do something with this or the light switch to get an over-run on the fan? I appreciate that is what timer fans are for...

Thanks and all and especially @pete01. As suggested. I removed the live from the fan side and everything now works correctly. Are we saying the live on the feed side is required or is that superflous here too? I don't plan to change it now as it is working! Just interested to understand.

Will report back shortly @pete01. Thanks again :)

It's definitely a standard fan. He showed me the box for the fan. I will remove the live on the fan side and isolate. Presumably, the incoming live has no function either? I can leave in the switch terminal but interested to understand.

It's in my sisters house and they had a ceiling fan replaced with a in-line fan. Apparently, they had a similar issue previously too. She wasn't to precise about the issue previously but it sounded like the fan and light switch didn't work as they should.

Would this be by design or a fault in how it’s wired into the fan?

Can I get some advice with this please. It’s connected to an inline fan (no timer) in the attic and I’d rather rewire it here, than climb into the loft. Let me explain the situation. I have this fan switch outside the bath. Here is the wiring: The cables at the top are coming from the...

40mm 18gauge nails.

Yes, was thinking the same... The weight of the rigid 150mm duct has caused it to snap. I need to find a way to lift that up and rest it on something, as that will close the gap. I can then run some duct tape over it.

Called them this morning. They don't carry spare parts! I am looking at a repair job on this and would welcome any suggestions that you may have please. Thanks again.

Any ideas how I can repair or replace this strap on a 150mm extractor please? It’s no longer under warranty.

I've never skimmed. Plasterboard and easifill is the closest I have got. Should I block up and then plasterboard perhaps?

Had another thought - could I stick one of those bricks at the bottom and then mount the bottom edge of the plasterboard to that and the top corners already have some exposed bricks. Perhaps I can get a tube of Stixall to fix the brick and then the plasterboard to the bricks too? I can then...

Could I stick plasterboard directly on to some of the exposed brick at the too right and left corner and then glue some battens at the bottom to screw in to?

I'm looking for a simple fix to this please. It's a hole left by some plumbing alterations in one of the cupboards. It's quite a tight space. I have some plasterboard and am used to using the tape and easifill to smooth things out. Struggling to see how I can get a flush finish on this. I would...

I’ve got a couple of brad nails in my skirting that bent or don’t go in fully. I’ve tried the centre punch approach but they are too fine to get anything positioned over them. It keeps slipping. I also tried pulling them out with a pair of pliers and there isn’t enough to grip on to. How do you...

Is 2 part necessary in this situation? I find it difficult to mould and flatten out. Regular wood filler is easier to work with. Something like a toupret wood filler. Let me know your thoughts please.

I used standard Dulux Matt emulsion. Presumably, I need to scrape everything off and start again, using the sealer as you have suggested? If yes, when I scrape it off, can I start again straight away or do I need to wait for surface to dry or PVA before I start?

I did cut out the loose bits of paint with a grinder as I wanted the new plasterboard sheet to be larger than the hole. How do I seal the surface? Also, could this have been caused by me painting it before the easifill was fully dry? I may have inadvertently done that.

Thanks for the responses. I’ve taken it to a car mechanic and hoping he can weld it for me.