Search results

Thanks reply @opps. As you say, it’s a bit cheaper than CT1 - I’ll give it a try. D

Has anyone experience of using OB1 for caulking ? Or a recommendation for interior caulking that won’t shrink / crack fall out when I turn my back. Thanks D

I did - it’s very nice. Much prefer it to the Trade Diamond Eggshell. And it had a nice matt (but smooth) finish; the Diamond Egshell has much more sheen than it once did. D

Anyone had any experience of the DANFOSS RAS-B² Dynamic TRV. …………a good idea or another thing to go wrong ? Thanks D

For sure. Thanks for tips. D

Thank you @blup I’ve just bought smallest towel rail I could find and a 150W element so a timer is a good shout. Best D

Thank you @opps and noted on bathroom. I’ve just given some Trade Diamond Eggshell a go in bathroom and ummmmm - can’t get on with that at all. The old water based eggshell was lovely paint, this stuff is hard work. I might get some Johnstones Trade Acrylic Durable Matt for bathroom and...

Thanks reply @footprints. I’ve tried it on a few walls now and it covers really well; never seen the walls look so good. So much so, I’m tempted to leave the Supermatt finish in bedrooms / low traffic areas. D

Hi all, I’ve been using Dulux Trade Supermatt and I like the opacity and Matt finish; it covers well in a really old house with many imperfections. I appreciate that it’s very low vinyl content means it’s not tough and washable and that it will mark being ultra Matt. That aside, is there any...

I may have confused things there - I was meaning my DT50 equivalent figure is 5.5kW. Ie I’ve taken my room heat loss of 2.8kW and used a DT30 correction factor (equiv 5.5kW in the ‘standard tables’). That said, I’ve attached my workings out for that room - please let me know if you spot any...

I think 450(h) is about my max - that gives me 25mm (to cill) wiggle room to mount rad on brackets and 125mm underneath for air convection (whereas Stelrad recommend 150mm) D

Thanks reply and pointer; I have been looking at these. Eg….,window cill at 600mm. The two outgoing rads were 300h k3 at 300h x 1000 and 2000 are 1349W and 2698W respectively I’d need one of each (2x 2000mm would block off the 13A mains socket) That gives me 4,047W - I’m looking for 5,500W so...

Hi again everyone - I’ve had a good look at my sizing now. Alas, I simply do not have wall space for the larger DT30 rads. I can however (just about) accommodate the DT40 sized rads. If I understand correctly, that will give me a flow / return of 70degC / 50degC ? And I’d be just below the...

Thx - I’ll have a read D

Thanks - I don’t mind paying for an app I just couldn’t find one - please send me a link to the one you are referring to Thanks D

Thank you @endecotp - that’s a very valid point. I don’t think my boiler is sophisticated enough to have weather compensation. I guess my only option would be to manually adjust flow temp in summer months. I can 100% see the merit in the recommended DT30. What I’m grappling with is the...

Firstly, thank you for advice and your generosity of time; it’s very much appreciated. There’s still lots I don’t know but I’m much better informed now, than when I started. To recap - - I didn’t get on with on-line heat loss apps - I calculated manually heat loss by room using areas / U...

I’m only altering / repairing an existing system ? Replacing the 40yr old rusty / sludge rads (and trying to get sizing correct). And the boiler and UFH has been installed by a ‘competent person’. The same person will be fitting / flushing / commissioning the rads. D

Sorry, I missed that reply; then figured it out myself 15mins later If I didn’t go the DT30 route; is it just that I’m not taking the opportunity to improve efficiency. And if I size of the DT50 data, it will suffice albeit at perhaps 10% less efficiency. Thanks D

Sorry typo (so 4,5682 4,582W for two but still 620W short of what I’d need).