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The time and effort won't be worth it, and it will deteriorate soon after you put the last coat of varnish on. Many plastic filters actually hold water in the wood and accelerate decay. The joints will expand and contract naturally, and water will still get in via those lose panels too. By...

The reversion application is merely factual and procedural statements, not technical, so you should be able to complete it yourself.

Insulation does not magically make a room warmer. There must is a heat source in the room keeping it heated Ideally, insulation should be on the room side. Otherwise, you need to be certain that there are no air gaps in the wall frame letting cold air in behind the insulation layer. Don't...

If the surfaces are paper, or if in unpainted areas the surfaces are a different colour to the edges, then it's plasterboard.

it's common for roof timbers to be supplemented not substituted, as long as any other connected timbers are still secure. This can normally be done from the inside.

If you could apportion any blame to that, then that would be a good strategy. Normally, any work into the ground requires a detailed ground survey/assessment for underground services. If this pole has damaged the drainage system in any way, then there is negligence, and with that comes the...

It's not very wise to try and deal with condensation issues with isolated changes. You need to know what is actually causing it - the building or the people in it, and deal with issues in combination. You certainly should not be thinking in terms of putting "x" amount of insulation on a wall and...

The fundamental thing is that the walls are adequately tied and restrained by the roof to form a rigid monolithic structure. Half brick walls up to one storey are good enough and easily justified by calculation if need be. If anyone can tell me when housebuilders stopped building single skin...

For a carport? :rolleyes:

Frost layer is up to 6" below the surface. Don't over think it, these are fence posts.

You can use lime as a plasticiser, but no need to use lime mortar. For a cement mortar, no stronger than 4:1 It's often advantageous to use either a sharp sand, or part sharp sand mix to toughen the mortar to compensate for a weaker mix. Sharp sand also removes the brown shade of red building...

That stepped flashing looks like it was made for a different chimney! There is nothing wrong with a straight flashing as long as its recessed into the wall. You need to be certain if the damp you are experiencing is due to that flashing, and not one of several other possible reasons.

Both irrelevant to the current situation now.

Normal countersunk wood screws will be fine, galvanised or passivated You may need brass screw cups of the boards are soft.

You've turned the heating on high, things have dried out, the ceiling shrunk a bit more than usual

Oh, you mean the discharge or drainage field from the tank, not a soakaway? Check your deeds to see what the easement says, if any. And whether you are still in accordance with it - eg no additional extensions/rooms. You may need a survey to confirm if there is a problem either with your tank...

Will they except "here's the locations of hundreds of thousands of garages that have not managed to fall down for the past 80 years, and the sites of some new builds being built now"?

I/2 brick with piers centrally and at any opening for a single storey, regardless of how big it is.

You could try some C clips fitted over the ends where the interlock is. Use some silicone or no nails to help secure them

What's supporting the edge of the first row of tiles? No batten?