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Can't change the past, but going forward this is what needs to be done. Vacuum the debris out, heat the felt up to push it back against the wall, fit lead cover flashing. Something like this

Not really, as once salts are activated, future moisture evaporation brings them to the surface. The process is generally seasonal and random, and can take a very specific set of circumstances to occur - therfore may not occur all the time or every year. Standard advice is dry brushing only...

Not subsidence then. Lintel [or lack of] for the upper cracking, and maybe thermal [shrinkage] for the lower cracking and your plaster cracking.

Text is hard to understand. Post a sketch, preferably a sectional view. The whole point of a DPC is to stop water coming up the wall and entering the internal leaf of a cavity wall and the floor. To that end it can go anywhere as long as it acheives it's purposes. Cavity trays are used where...

Fluffy=efflorescence.

Internal cracking?

Put a lead flashing over the felt upstand. The upstand can be heated up to push it back towards the wall, then a lead flashing slotted in to the wall and draped over the upstand.

:oops: Corrected * [fancy, overerly elaborate, lacking in detail but mega-expensive]

Once the flats are ready, contact the VOA (online) to have them assessed and the correct council tax bands set. They then notify the local council who creates the individual accounts.

You would have to enact any change of use permission and do the conversion work, have the converted areas assessed for domestic rates/community charge, then the commercial areas reassessed.

Unlikely related to verge If you have several similar patches and they are in varied locations relative to the roof slope, then you may have split felt or other punctures. The best way to assess is to look at the rafters after a dry and mild even temperature period, then again after the next...

The rate won't change just by getting permission for a change of use.

DPC can, and if necessary should, run down and under the cill of any frame. However I suspect you are asking the wrong question, as the is no reason why a DPC would be that high relative to the ground or floor.

I do have a bit of a problem and have many tools that fall into the "bargain, must buy it", or "that will be useful one day" categories. These mainly sit unused, some still in their packaging, and actually create other problems when I need to look for tools I actually need to use. I used to...

If you can't find the model specific one, get one of those universal adapters, and use a heat gun or the cooker hob to heat one end to form a rectangular socket.

Use treated timber for any replacement

For the form, you would summarise the work - "remove existing light fitting and fit new spotlights to the bathroom" You won't need to state qualifications, but you should state that the electrician will be qualified to Part P, Building Regulations, and will be a member of an approved competent...

You may want to silicone the saw cut and the adjacent joint too. Water ruining down the barge capping will be going in there.

Those readings are very generic, and for internal timber. You will also be probing the surface, which will give higher readings Timbers in a ventilated floor void will be subject to the humidity of the air coming in and evaporation of damp substructure, and acceptable percentage will be...

If still available, Bad Boy blades are 100mm wide and have an aggressive but smooth cut, and will give nice even straight lines. Using a board as a guide for height, the skirting can be cut straight and square