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Smoke testing is a waste of time. A masonry wall is permeable and water will always run down the rear face of the outer leaf once the masonry is saturated.

A dpc can be used a cavity tray. Are you saying that dpc has been removed to fit proprietary trays? In any case, the tray must be built in to the inner leaf. No if's, buts, maybe's or might do's.

:cautious:

The issue is most likely the lack of bellcast, that perfectly square and flat opening head render, and lack of properly sealed frame head before rendering. All this is allowing rain water run off to penetrate above the frame. This assumes that there is no water penetrating the wall from a...

I'll put 50p on the stop

PVC trim, and foiled MDF looks worse than timber when it starts to get worn with inevitable knocks and dings, chemical staining and fading - and will never be retrievable. Plus, it tends never to blend in with either the skirting nor the flooring.

Non-standard, but it won't be a big issue.

Wait until the spring, to avoid loading saturated ground and getting movement later when it dries

You can just insulate and board it. Skip the crossing fingers stage.

I'd question the 64m2 figure as I don't think it's ever a specific threshold measure. You are responsible to complying with any regulations, and being given a 64m3 figure by mistake won't exempt you, but being told specifically that your [64m3] volume is below the threshold will. It's all in...

Perhaps a firm that does asphalt - this type of firm tends to have more experienced people for this type of work, not just any old flat roofer? Recoat and they could pick up the levels to form better drainage.

And pick your tradesmen wisely. You'll need a good bricklayer, [pitched] roofer and I wonder if plumbers still do lead? Or someone who is very good at all these. Perhaps someone who works on historic buildings who may care a bit more, and have experience of this type of detail

You should use a silane/siloxane based product (thick milky white creamy) and not the cheaper silicone products such as Thompsons (runny clear liquid). Joints should be in good condition for the product to work - no gaps, and not crumbly. It paints on like emulsion so you can see where you...

Yes if you are seeing building paper on the frame then a mesh render carrier would be the most likely.

Huh, huh. Thank you very much

What's happened to the cill! o_O

Because the condensation risk is none to minimal in that situation. Insulate it as best you can - PIR (foil backed) board is twice as efficient as quilt for the same thickness (but will cost more), then board up the garage side. Use expanding foam and/or mastic to fill any gaps to prevent air...

Expanding foam, applied carefully and then cut back to suit. Or foam and strips of plaster board. If you take the existing off and expose the back of the wall below the frame, fit a DPC first.

You'll need to rip the render and fake beams off, line the frame with a sheathing board (e.g. OSB) fit a breather membrane, fit carrier battens to form an air cavity and then fit the cladding to those. There should be a continuous open vent (mesh covered) at the bottom and the top below the...

That gable is unlikely to have masonry infill due to the loading. These are typically timber frames