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So, is this "roofer", a flat roof or a pitched roof roofer?

No. They are never high enough and never the right size or shape, and legs are always in the way and always will be knocked. Rain flies off the edges and splashes everywhere, and it's just a miserable way of working. I will challenge anyone who knocks up some sort of cover not to have rain...

They are on offer from 15th Feb. £20 or £10 with a lidl card

I had a great lidl one for years until it was lent out and not returned. It had a nice wide belt I have the Bosch green one now, which is good albeit with a narrower belt. Just remember to properly clean it out and don't let the dust accumulate in the motor housing. Also, get one of those...

No don't bother bricklaying in the rain - even under any sort of heath-robinson cover. The risk of it becoming a right mess forever is too great. Just make sure you cover all bricks blocks and sand to keep them dry, unless you love white bricks and mortar and cracked blocks and plaster.

Yes. With every cordless tool, brushless and non-brushless, you can hear the motor spin faster with higher Ah batteries. Also, the additional power prevents tools like circular saws from binding. It's unrelated to the run time. Whether this is specific to Li-ion and not the older NiCd or NiMh I...

Nowadays, ferrous screws are mainly thinly plated not glavanised - the coating tends to get worn just by driving the screws in. Water running off one screw is a risk, but may not produce significant rust staining, but several screws or if water is allowed to collect and then over flow that...

Most likely a soakaway, if not a broken drain. Ask your water supplier for their maps of the drain network. They will tell you if there is a drain. You are charged for rainwater drainage going into the public drain network, and your rainwater is going in to the ground, or a soakaway, you can...

Higher Ah batteries will always initially make the motor spin faster than lower capacity batteries, and then the motor will slow to equal the speed of a lower capacity battery as the current is drained

Water will always run inside those plastic verge sections, and down the face too. They should normally drain to a gutter or some other method to deal with the internal discharge. Your contractors have used nails/screws that are not stainless, and/or left some lying around, and the orange colour...

Thermal plasterboard wont meet the required u-value for the external wall. You need to check your design specification for the required standard you need to meet. And start by filling in all those empty joints to prevent air leakage

They look like thermal (shrinkage) cracks which are common when heating patterns or seasons change. If you are selling then you should avoid letting anyone see cracks, or you will be in a world of ill-informed conjecture and delays/withdrawals. Get the area replastered - sections removed and...

As an old MOD house, is this a system or traditional build? The following is based on a traditional build .... The external wall is getting saturated - the staining at high level. The bricks are soft clay and the unfinished recessed pointing is the wrong choice - it allows water to easily...

Rooflight The rooflight needs an upstand Just because an existing component is incorrect, does not mean it is acceptable to remain and can then be built into any contracted new work. Doing so fails the test for negligence and general duty of care owed by a professional firm. The standards you...

Council BCO's assess applications and include for a set number of visits over a reasonable period of time, and state that if the applicant does not adhere to these then further charges may be incurred. This is to allow for their increase in costs over time. Private inspectors may well do...

Something like a tile adhesive, and pointed with cement mortar. Although some people did use mortar to stick the cladding on It's not itself a reason for any dampness

Oak posts will out last you and probably your house. The end grain should be treated with a copper, borate or oil based preservative, and if need be a physical DPC. None of those stupid metal brackets on a oak post that is meant to look traditional. Use a builder that knows what he's doing, not...

You're not considering condensation then? And hygroscopic plaster (salts absorbing air moisture)?

That is OK for thermal insulation, but i don't think that foam adhesive is rated for fire, and if so can't be relied upon to fix plasterboard for fire protection - TBH, same applies to traditional board adhesive.

There is no requirement for a gap, and a gap is not good practice either.