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Its 4" high

That's a poxy bodge and trip hazard. Probably done to mask that dangerous first step. But yes, you'd form a [tight] mortice and slot it over the string. It could be glued and dowelled to secure it.

Get better bricklayers. :p

The cut forms a thermal break. Add DPC, secure in place with some mastic.

Arrh, but can you be skimming your dabbed boards 30 minutes after fixing?

Air leakage is the main thing to consider, so make sure however you do it, the cavity is properly sealed.

There is no need, and no advantage in forming a continuous cavity. A single saw cut for a vDPC is all that's needed.

Scrunch up some steel mesh and put that in as a rodent barrier and then just fill it (from the back first) with expanding foam. Dampen the surfaces first. You can extend the filling tube if need be. If you release the foam slowly it will be denser when it sets and it expands less. Also a water...

It only expands in the sense of when it comes out the can it foams a bit but then stops after few seconds. It needs to be left for about 5 minutes anyway before offering up the board. Use a water mist spray to help grip and speed up setting

Didn't use enough Gripfill. Cheapskates

Yeah, just stick to the script. You've not made a ground breaking discovery in the roofing world.

Take the flashband off and brush the Acrypol on. It can be applied to wet surfaces no problem. But as mentioned above, the felt is at life end. You could further apply Acrypol to all the felt joints and any worn areas, but you are probably looking at a new roof cover in the next few years.

Having two layers of flashing is rarely a good idea. And get them to give them a clean while they are up there, and you will see an increase in your power generation and if you have a FIT, credit from your energy supplier.

It's a standard timber frame bay construction, including the gable. Cement board will last the life of the house, and does not need maintenance. However, people tend to prefer it painted

Your external repainting schedule would be every 5-7 years depending on the local exposure. Clean downs at half those times. Whether you choose to do the timbers along with the render would be a matter of personal choice, but they would not need it. The issue with the timbers are those open...

To be sure, to be sure

Have you been in our kitchen? :unsure:

For the sake of four screws, use what ever fits! Or as Mrs W would advise, a knife out of the cutlery drawer.

It's a problem with the forum

Cavity tray